The tsetse fly is slightly larger than the house fly, but it has a sleeker more streamlined body, with transparent wings veined in brown.
‘The saviour of Africa,’ the old man had called it once, and Mark repeated the words aloud as he crushed it between his fingers. It burst in a bright liquid red explosion of the blood it had sucked from his neck. He knew the bite would swell and turn angry red, all the subsequent bites would react in the same way, until swiftly his body rebuilt its immunity. Within a week he would not even notice their stings, and the bite would cause less discomfort that that of a mosquito.
‘The saviour of Africa,’ the old man had told him. ‘This little bastard was all that saved the whole country being overrun and over-grazed with domestic animals. Cattle first, and after cattle the plough, and after the plough the towns and the railway tracks.’ The old man had chewed slowly, like a ruminating bull in the light of the camp fire, his face shaded by the spread of the terai hat. ‘One day they will find some way to kill him, or something to cure the sleeping sickness – the nagana – that he carries. Then the Africa we know will have gone, lad.’ He spat a long honey-brown spirt of juice into the fire. ‘What will Africa be without its lonely places and its game? A man might as well go back and live in London town.’
Looking with new eyes and new understanding at the majestic indigenous forest around him, Mark saw in his imagination what it might have been like without its tiny brown-winged guardians; the forests chopped out for firewood, and cleared for ox-drawn cultivation, the open land grazed short and the hooves of the cattle opening the ground cover to begin the running ulcers of erosion, the rivers browned and sullied by the bleeding earth and by man’s filth.
The game hunted out – for its meat and because it was in direct competition to the domestic animals for grazing. For the Zulu, cattle was wealth, had been for a thousand years, and wherever cattle could thrive, they came with their herds.
Yet it was ironic that this wilderness had had another guardian, apart from the winged legions, and that guardian had been a Zulu. Chaka, the great Zulu king, had come here long ago. Nobody knew when, for the Zulu does not measure time as a white man does, nor record his history in the written word.
The old man had told Mark the story, speaking in Zulu which was fitting for such a story, and his old Zulu gunbearer had listened and nodded approvingly, or grunted a correction of fact; occasionally he spoke at length embroidering a point in the legend.
In those days there had lived here in the basin a small tribe of hunters and gatherers of wild honey, so they called themselves Inyosi, the bees. They were a poor people but proud, and they resisted the mighty king and his insatiable appetite for conquest and power.
Before his swarming impis, they had withdrawn into the natural fortress of the northern bluff. Remembering the story, Mark raised his eyes and looked across the river at the sheer cliffs.
Twelve hundred men and women and children, they had climbed the only narrow and dangerous path to the summit, the women carrying food upon their heads, a long dark moving file against the rock wall, they had gone up into their sanctuary. And from the summit the Chief and his warriors had shouted their defiance at the king.
Chaka had gone out alone and stood below the cliff, a tall and lithe figure, terrible in the strength of his youth and majesty of his presence.
‘Come down, oh Chief, receive the king’s blessing and be a chief still – under the sunshine of my love.’
The Chief had smiled and called in jest to his warriors around him, ‘I heard a baboon bark!’ Their laughter rang against the rock cliffs. The king turned and strode back to where his impis squatted in long patient ranks, ten thousand strong.
In the night Chaka picked fifty men, calling each softly by name. Those of great heart and fearsome reputation. And he had told them simply, ‘When the moon is down, my children, we will climb the cliff above the river,’ and he laughed that low deep laugh, the sound of which so many had heard as their last sound on this earth. ‘For did not that wise chief call us baboons – and the baboon climbs where no man dares.’
The old gunbearer had pointed out to Mark in daylight the exact route that Chaka had taken to the top. It needed binoculars to trace the hairline cracks and the finger-wide ledges.
Mark shuddered now, retracing the route with his eyes, and he remembered that Chaka had led that climb without ropes, in the pitch darkness after the moon, and carrying his shield and his broad-bladed stabbing spear strapped on his back.
Sixteen of his warriors had slipped and fallen during the climb, but such was the mettle of the men that Chaka had chosen that not one of them had uttered a sound during that terrible dark plunge, not a whisper of sound to alert the Inyosi sentries until the final soft thud of flesh on rock down below in the gorge.
In the dawn, while his impis diverted the Inyosi by skirmishing on the pathway, Chaka had slipped over the rim of the cliff, regrouped his remaining warriors and – thirty-five against twelve hundred – carried the summit with a single shattering charge, each stab of the great blades crashing through a body from chest to spine, and the withdrawal sucking the life blood out in a gushing burst of scarlet.
‘Ngidhla! I have eaten,’ roared the king and his men as they worked, and most of the Inyosi threw themselves from the cliff top into the river below, rather than face Chaka’s wrath. Those who hesitated to jump were assisted in their decision.
Chaka lifted the chief of the Inyosi with both hands high above his head, and held him easily as he struggled.
‘If I am a baboon – then you are a sparrow!’
He roared with savage laughter. ‘Fly, little sparrow, fly!’ and he hurled the man far out into the void.
For once they spared not even the women nor the children, for among the sixteen Zulus who had fallen from the cliff during the climb were those whom Chaka loved.
The old gunbearer had scratched in the debris of the scree face below the cliff and showed Mark in the palms of his hand chips of old bone that might have been human.
After his victory on the summit, Chaka had ordered a great hunt in the basin of the two rivers.
Ten thousand warriors to drive the game, and the hunt had lasted four days. They said that the king alone with his own hands had slain two hundred buffalo. The sport had been such that afterwards he had made the decree:
‘This is a royal hunting ground, no man will hunt here again, no man but the king. From the cliffs over which Chaka threw the Inyosi, east to the mountain crests, south and north for as far as a man may run in a day, and a night, and another day, this land is for the king’s hunt alone. Let all men hear these words, tremble and obey.’
He had left a hundred men under one of his older indunas to police the ground, under the title of ‘keeper of the king’s hunt’, and Chaka returned again and again, perhaps drawn to this well of peace to refresh and rest his tortured soul with its burning crippling craving for power. He had hunted here, even in that period of dark madness while he mourned his mother Nandi, the Sweet One. He had hunted here nearly every year until at last he had died beneath the assassin’s blades wielded by his own brothers.
Probably nearly a century later, the legislative council of Natal, sitting in solemn conclave, hundreds of miles distant from the cliffs of Chaka’s Gate, had echoed his decree and proclaimed the area reserved against hunting or despoliation, but they had not policed the Royal Hunt as well as had the old Zulu king. The poachers had been busy over the years, with bow and arrow, with snare and pit, with spear and dog pack, and with high-powered rifled weapons.
Perhaps soon, as the old man had predicted, they would find a cure for the nagana or a means of eradicating tsetse fly. A man-made law would be repealed, and the land given over to the lowing, slow-moving herds of cattle and to the silver-bright blade of the plough. Mark felt a physical sickness of the stomach at the prospect, and he rose and set off along the scree slope to let the sickness pass.
The old man had always been a c
reature of habit, even to the clothes he wore and his daily rituals of living. He always camped at the same spot when he travelled a familiar road or returned to a place he had visited before.
Mark went directly to the old camp site above the river junction in the elbow of the main river course, where flood waters had cut a steep high bank and the elevated ground above it formed a plateau shaded by a grove of sycamore fig trees, with stems thick as Nelson’s column in Trafalgar Square and the cool green shade below them murmurous with the sound of insects and purple doves.
The hearth stones for the camp fire were still there, scattered a little and blackened with soot. Mark built them back into the correct shape.
There was plenty of firewood, dead and fallen trees and branches, driftwood brought down by the floods and cast up on the high watermark on the bank.
Mark drew clear water from the river, put the billy on to boil for tea, and then, from the side pocket of the pack, brought out the sheath of paper, held together by a clasp and already much fingered and a little tattered, that Marion had sent him.
‘Transcript of the evidence from the coroners’ inquiry into the death of JOHN ANDERS ESQUIRE of the farm ANDERSLAND in the district of LADYBURG.’
Marion Littlejohn had typed it out laboriously during her lunch hours, and her lack of skill with the machine was evident in the many erasures and over-types.
Mark had read it so many times before that he could almost repeat the entire text from memory, even the irrelevant remarks from the bench.
Mr Greyling (Snr): We was camped there by the Bubezi River, Judge —
Magistrate: I am not a judge, sir. The correct form of address to this Court is Your Worship.
But now he began again at the beginning, searching carefully for some small clue to what he was seeking that he might have overlooked in his previous readings.
But always he came back to the same exchange.
Magistrate: Will the witness please refer to the deceased as ‘the deceased’ and not ‘the old man’.
Mr Greyling (Snr): Sorry, your worship. The deceased left camp early on the Monday morning, he says like he’s going to look for kudu along the ridge. It would be a little before lunchtime we hears a shot and my boy, Cornelius, he says – ‘Sounds like the old man got one’ – beg your pardon, I mean the deceased.
Magistrate: You were still in camp at that time?
Mr Greyling (Snr): Yes, Your Worship, my boy and me, we was cutting and hanging biltong — we didn’t go out that day.
Mark could imagine the butchering of the game carcasses, the raw red meat hacked into long strips, soaked in buckets of brine, and then festooned on the branches of the trees – a scene of carnage he had witnessed so often before. When the meat had dried to black sticks, like chewing tobacco, it was packed into jute sacks for later carriage out on the pack donkeys. The wet meat dried to a quarter of its weight, and the resulting biltong was highly prized through Africa and commanded such a high price as to make the poaching a lucrative trade.
Magistrate: When did you become concerned by the deceased’s absence?
Mr Greyling: Well, he didn’t come into camp that night. But we weren’t worried like. Thought he might have been spooring up a hit one, and slept up a tree.
Further on in the evidence was the statement:
Mr Greyling (Snr): … Well, in the end we didn’t find him until the fourth day. It was the assvogels — beg pardon, the vultures — that showed us where to look. He had tried to climb the ridge at a bad place, we found where he had slipped and the gun was still under him. It must have been that shot we heard – we buried him right there, you see he wasn’t fit to carry — what with the birds and the sun. We put up a nice cross, carved it myself, and I said the Christian words.
Mark refolded the transcript, and slipped it back into the pack. The tea was brewing and he sweetened it with thick condensed milk and brown sugar.
Blowing on the mug to cool it, and sipping at the sweet liquid, he pondered what he had gleaned. A rocky ridge, a bad place, within sound of gunshot of where he now sat, a cairn of stones, probably, and a wooden cross, perhaps long ago consumed by termites.
He had a month, but he wondered if that was time enough. On such slim directions it was a search that could take years, if luck ran against him.
Even if he was successful, he wasn’t yet sure what he would do next. The main concern that drove him on was merely to find where the old man lay. After that he would know what to do.
He worked the ridges and the rocky ground on the south bank first. For ten days he climbed and descended the rugged rim of the basin, hard going against the grain of the natural geological formations, and at the end of that time he was lean as a greyhound, arms and face burned to the colour of a new loaf by the sun and with a dark crisp pelt of beard covering his jaw. The legs of his pants were tattered by the coarse, razor-edged grass and by the clumps of aptly named wait-a-bit thorns, that grabbed at him to delay his progress.
There was a rich treasure of bird life in the basin, even in the heated hush of midday, the air rang with their cries — the fluting mournful whistle of a wood dove or the high piping chant of a white-headed fish eagle circling high overhead. In the early morning and again in the cool of the evening, the bush came alive with the jewelled flash of feathers – the scarlet breast of the impossibly beautiful Narina Trogon, named long ago for a Hottentot beauty by one of the old travellers, the metallic flash of a sunbird as it hovered over the pearly fragrant flowers of a buffalo creeper, the little speckled woodpeckers tapping furiously with heads capped in cardinal red, and, in the reeds by the river, the ebony sheen of the long floating tail feathers of the Sakabula bird. All this helped to lighten the long weary hours of Mark’s search, and a hundred times a day he paused, enchanted, to watch for a few precious moments.
However, of the larger animals he saw very little, although their sign was there. The big shiny pellets of kudu dung scattered along their secret pathways through the forest, the dried faeces of a leopard furry with baboon hair from its kill, the huge midden of a white rhinoceros, a mountain of scattered dung accumulated over the years as this strange animal returned to the same place daily to defecate.
Pausing beside the rhinoceros midden, Mark grinned as he remembered one of the old man’s stories, the one that explained why the rhinoceros was so fearful of the porcupine and why he always scattered his own dung.
Once, long ago, he had borrowed from the porcupine a quill to sew up the tear in his skin caused by a red-tipped mimosa thorn. When the job was done the rhinoceros had held the quill between his teeth as he admired his handiwork, but by accident he swallowed the quill.
Now, of course, he runs away to avoid having to face the porcupine’s recriminations — and he sifts each load that he drops, to try and recover the missing quill.
The old man had a hundred yams like that one to delight a small boy, and Mark felt close to him again; his determination to find his grave strengthened, as he shifted the rifle to his other shoulder and turned once more to the rocky ridge of the high ground.
On the tenth day, he was resting in the deep shade at the edge of a clearing of golden grass, when he had his first good sighting of larger game.
A small herd of graceful pale brown impala, led by three impressively homed rams, emerged from the far side of the clearing. They fed cautiously; every few seconds they froze into perfect stillness with only the big scooplike ears moving as they listened for danger, and their wet black noses snuffing silently.
Mark was out of meat, he had eaten the last of the bully the previous day, and he had brought the rifle for just this moment – to relieve a diet of mealie porridge – yet he found himself strangely reluctant to use it now, a reluctance he had never known as a boy. For the first time, he looked with eyes that saw not just meat but rare and unusual beauty.
The three rams moved slowly across the clearing, passing a hundred paces from where Mark sat silently, and then drifted away, pale sh
adows, into the thorn scrub. The does followed them, trotting to keep up, one with a lamb stumbling on long gawky legs at her flank, and at the rear of the troop was a half-grown doe.
One of her back legs was crippled, it was withered and stunted, swinging free of the ground and the animal was having difficulty keeping up with the herd. It had lost condition badly; bone of rib and spine showed clearly through a hide that lacked the gloss and shine of health.
Mark swung up the P.14 and the flat crack of the shot bounced from the cliffs across the river, and startled a flock of white-faced duck into whistling flight off the river.
Mark stooped over the doe as she lay in the grass and touched the long curled lashes that fringed the dark swimming eye. There was no reflex blink, and the check for life was routine only. He knew the shot had taken her in the centre of the heart, an instantaneous kill.
‘Always make the check.’ The old man’s teachings again. ‘Percy Young would tell you that himself if he could, but he was sitting there on a dead lion he had just shot, having a quiet pipe, when it came to life again. That’s why he isn’t around to tell you himself.’
Mark rolled the carcass and squatted to examine the back limb. The wire noose had cut through the skin, through sinew and flesh, and had come up hard against the bone as the animal struggled to break out of the snare. Below the wire the leg had gangrened and the smell was nauseous, summoning a black moving wad of flies.
Mark made the shallow gutting stroke, deflecting the blade upwards to avoid puncturing the gut. The belly opened like a purse. He freed the anus and vagina with the deft surgeon strokes, and lifted out bladder and bowel and gut in one scoop. He dissected the purple liver out of the mass of viscera, cut away the gall bladder and tossed it aside. Grilled over the coals, the liver would make a feast for his dinner. He cut away the rotten, stinking hind leg, and then he carefully wiped out the stomach cavity with a handful of dry grass. He cut flaps in the skin of the neck. Using the flaps of skin as handles, he hefted the whole carcass and lugged it down to the camp by the river. Cut and salted and dried, he now had meat for the rest of his stay. He hung the strips of meat high in the sycamore fig to save them from the scavengers who would surely visit the camp during his daily absences, and only when he had finished the task, and he was crouching over his fire with the steaming mug in his hand, did he think again of the snaring wire that had crippled the impala doe.