Black pudding is usually included in an Ulster fry and is made from pork blood, oatmeal, pork fat, spices, and onion, encased in a sausage skin. It is an acquired taste and some people prefer white pudding, which is similar but does not contain blood. White pudding, however, is not traditionally part of an Ulster Fry.
Regional variations are known as a Full English, a Full Scottish, or a Full Irish and there are differences between them. The English and Scottish breakfasts will include baked beans and sometimes mushrooms. The Full Irish includes white pudding.
Serves 1
Canola oil (about 2 Tbls or more if you need it)
2 pork sausages (Cookstown if you can get them)
2 slices bacon
1 tomato
1 Soda Farl (here)
Irish Potato Bread (here)
Black pudding
2 eggs (free-range if available)
Turn the oven on at its lowest setting to warm the plates. Heat a little of the oil in a large frying pan over a low heat. Then prick the sausages with a fork and cook gently, turning occasionally, until they are just coloured. Add the bacon to the pan and fry until it becomes crispy but not burnt. Remove the sausages and bacon to a warm dish in the oven and cover with kitchen paper.
Slice the tomato in half and place in the pan. Cut the soda farl in half and fry in the residue of the bacon fat. Add the potato bread and continue cooking for just long enough for the potato bread to brown on the outside and stay soft in the middle and the soda farl to absorb the delicious bacon flavour. Remove to the oven to keep warm. Slice the black pudding. Fry quickly and place in the oven.
Clean the pan with a quick wipe of paper towels. Put the remaining oil in the pan. Crack the eggs into the pan and add a teaspoon of water, then cover the pan. The water will create steam and cook the top of the egg. Before you know it, the eggs will be ready by the time you have plated the rest of the Ulster Fry onto a clean warm plate. Serve.
Kinky’s Eggs Benedict
with Soda Farls
Serves 4
2 Soda Farls (Here)
4 slices bacon
4 fresh eggs
Hollandaise Sauce
3 eggs
2 Tbsp white wine vinegar
1 Tbsp lemon juice
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 oz/113 g butter
Boiling water
Make the soda farls first. You can have these ready in the freezer to use at any time. You will need only half a farl per person unless of course you are giving everyone 2 eggs each.
Grill or fry the bacon and keep warm.
Now make the Hollandaise Sauce.
I do this in a blender but you may want to use a whisk. Separate the egg yolks and egg whites.
Heat the vinegar and lemon juice in a small saucepan and reduce to about half. Put the vinegar mixture into the blender and gradually add the egg yolks and salt and pepper with the blender running slowly. Melt the butter in the same pan that you used for the vinegar and with the blender still running add the melted butter to the egg yolk mixture. The sauce will start to thicken and if you think it is too thick just add a little hot water.
What you have now is a traditional Hollandaise Sauce. I like to make more than I need so that I always have some in the freezer and am prepared to make a quick Benedict. However, the traditional Hollandaise does not freeze at all, so what you have to do is to beat up your leftover egg whites until they form soft peaks and fold them into the Hollandaise mixture. Freeze in individual portions and when needed just thaw and heat gently in a bain-marie or in a microwave on very low power for just a few seconds.
Poached Egg
1 egg per person
1 Tbsp vinegar
Boiling water
For a soft poached egg, bring a pan of water to the boil, then add the vinegar and reduce to a gentle simmer. Crack the egg into a bowl. Using a spoon, swirl the water in the pan to create a whirlpool, then carefully pour the egg into the centre of the whirlpool. Poach for 2 minutes, or until the whites are just set, then remove and place in a bowl of iced water until you are ready to use. To reheat the eggs just put into hot water for a few seconds and drain with a slotted spoon and a paper towel.
To assemble the Eggs Benedict
Cut the farls in half and toast and butter them. Place the grilled bacon on top, then the lightly poached egg. Finally pour the Hollandaise sauce over the top and serve straight away.
Beef
Beef Wellington
Serves 6
DUXELLES
A splash of truffle oil or olive oil
3 shallots, finely chopped
1 garlic clove, crushed
1 lb/455 g cremini or chestnut mushrooms, chopped
1 Tbsp finely chopped fresh parsley
BEEF AND PASTRY
2¼ lb/1 kg fillet of beef, trimmed
1 small bunch fresh thyme leaves
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 Tbsp olive oil
2 Tbsp strong English mustard or prepared horseradish
1 package frozen puff pastry, about 1 lb/455 g, thawed
1 egg, beaten
Coarse sea salt
FOR THE DUXELLES:
Heat the oil in a large frying pan over a medium-high heat, add the shallots and garlic, then add the mushrooms and cook until all the moisture from the mushrooms has evaporated. Add the chopped parsley.
FOR THE BEEF AND PASTRY:
Dry the fillet of beef with a paper towel, use a sharp knife to make a crisscross diamond pattern on the surface, and sprinkle with the thyme, plenty of salt, and pepper. In a large frying pan heat the oil over a high heat and sear the beef on all sides and each end. Now spread mustard over the entire fillet, wrap in cling film, and leave to chill in a refrigerator. (This may be done up to 24 hours ahead.)
When you are ready to cook the beef preheat the oven to 450°F/220°C. Roll out the puff pastry to a size that will completely wrap around the beef plus an extra inch or two for sealing. Spread the duxelles over the pastry. Lay the beef on top, then fold the pastry round it and moisten and seal the pastry edges. Brush the pastry with the beaten egg and use a sharp knife to make a crisscross pattern. Sprinkle the pastry with some coarse sea salt to help it to crisp. Bake for 30 to 35 minutes, until the pastry is crisp and golden, then remove from the oven and allow to rest for 10 to 12 minutes. Using a really sharp knife, cut into slices and serve.
Kinky’s Note:
When I made this for the marquis I added another step to the recipe but it really makes the dish much richer and is probably more suited to a very grand occasion, so. What you need is a portion of pâté de foie gras, a tablespoon of brandy, and some very thin pancakes or crêpes. You put a layer of pâté, softened with the brandy, onto the pancakes and place this, pâté side up, between the pastry and the duxelles.
VARIATION
Venison Wellington. Replace the beef with a boned loin of venison and proceed as before.
Beef and Dumplings
Serves 6
BEEF STEW
4–5 lb/1.8–2.3 kg bone-in brisket
25 oz/740 ml beef stock
8 oz/235 ml red wine
2 onions, chopped
3 or 4 carrots, peeled and chopped
2 Tbsp tomato puree
2 Tbsp fresh thyme leaves
1 Tbsp whole black peppercorns
4 bay leaves
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 bunch fresh parsley, chopped
SUET DUMPLINGS
14 oz/400 g self-rising flour
2 Tbsp chopped fresh parsley, plus extra for sprinkling
2 tsp salt
7 oz/200 g suet
Water
FOR THE BEEF STEW:
Preheat the oven to 225°F/100°C. Put the brisket in a Dutch oven or lidded casserole dish and add the stock, wine, onions, carrots, tomato puree, thyme, peppercorns, and bay leaves. Cover the pot with foil and then the lid. You want this
to be a really tight fit so that it will not evaporate too much. Cook for about 8 hours or overnight. (Alternatively, you could use a slow cooker.)
Allow the beef to cool in the cooking liquid then remove and slice into portions and set aside. Remove the bay leaves. Before you skim the surface fat from the liquor it helps to chill it in the refrigerator first.
So skim off the fat and liquidise the stock, adjust the salt and freshly ground black pepper, and bring up to a simmer on the stovetop. If the stock seems a little watery, just turn up the heat and reduce the quantity. Return the beef to the cooking pot together with the chopped parsley.
FOR THE SUET DUMPLINGS:
Combine the flour, parsley, and salt in a bowl and rub or cut the suet in. Add water to make a dough. Form the dough into egg-shaped pieces and add to the meat and the stock. Cover and simmer for about 15 minutes, by which time the dumplings will have doubled in size. Serve in individual dishes with some chopped parsley sprinkled over.
Kinky’s Note:
For really light dumplings do not open the lid when cooking, and keep it just at a simmer.
BEEF COBBLER
Instead of suet dumplings you could try this scone topping for a nice change.
COBBLER SCONE TOPPING
3½ oz/100 g whole-wheat flour
3½ oz/100 g all-purpose flour
1 Tbsp finely chopped fresh rosemary
2 tsp baking powder
½ tsp baking soda
A pinch of salt
5½ oz/156 g cheddar cheese, grated
4 to 5 Tbsp buttermilk
1 egg, beaten
Chopped fresh parsley
Preheat the oven to 425°F/220°C.
Whisk together the whole-wheat flour, all-purpose flour, rosemary, baking powder, baking soda, and salt in a bowl and stir in all but a couple of tablespoons of the cheese. Stir in the buttermilk gradually to make a soft dough. (You may not need all the milk or you may need a little more.)
Turn the dough out onto a floured work surface and, working quickly, roll out to about 1 inch thick. Cut out round scones, glaze with beaten egg, and top with the reserved cheese, pressing it down a little so that it sticks to the top of the scones. Now place these on the surface of the beef stew in the casserole and bake uncovered for 25 minutes or until the scone topping has risen and is golden brown. Sprinkle with chopped parsley and serve.
Beef and Guinness Stew
Serves 4
2 Tbsp all-purpose flour
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 lb 2 oz/500 g stewing steak, cut in 2-in/5-cm chunks
2 Tbsp canola oil, plus extra as needed
2 large onions, chopped
2 large carrots, peeled and chopped
1 parsnip, peeled and chopped
8 oz/235 ml Guinness
34 oz/1 L beef stock
1 small bunch fresh thyme
Season the flour well with salt and pepper and coat the steak with the seasoned flour. Heat the oil in a Dutch oven or pan with a lid over a medium to hot heat. Gradually add the meat to the hot oil and brown on all sides. Don’t add too much at a time. When all the meat has been browned, remove it from the Dutch oven to a plate. Now add the onions, carrots, and parsnip and a little more oil if necessary. Don’t worry about the brown caramelised remains of the meat as this all adds to the flavour. Stir the vegetables around for a few minutes and then return the meat to the pan.
Add the Guinness and cook, stirring to scrape the remains from the bottom. Add the stock and the thyme and allow to simmer slowly for 2 or 3 hours. Remove the lid and the thyme stalks and cook for a further 30 minutes or so until the liquid has reduced by about half. Serve with Champ (here) and suet dumplings or scone cobbler on top.
Kinky’s Note:
I like to make the stew the previous day because I think this improves the flavour. Then when you cook it the following day you can make the suet dumplings or cobbler topping to finish it off.
Corned Beef Curry
Patrick Taylor’s father, Squadron Leader Jimmy Taylor, RAFVR, had been stationed in Basra during the Second World War. An Indian regiment was part of the garrison and the officers’ messes entertained each other. While the Hindu soldiers were vegetarian and ate vegetarian curries, the RAF cookhouse had created one using corned beef as yet another way to serve the tinned meat, which was in plentiful supply (whereas fresh meat often was not). Jimmy was so impressed with the dish that he obtained the recipe and it was a popular meal at home after the war when Patrick Taylor was a boy.
Serves 4
1 Tbsp vegetable oil or olive oil
1 onion, chopped
2 carrots, peeled and finely chopped
1 potato or small turnip, diced
4 garlic cloves, crushed
1 (1-in/2.5-cm) piece fresh ginger, grated
1 red chile, seeded and chopped
½ small green chile, seeded and chopped
1 tsp ground coriander
1 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp garam masala
Freshly ground black pepper
17 oz/505 ml vegetable stock
1 (14.5-oz/411-g) can diced tomatoes
½ cup (4 oz/113 g) raisins
1 (12-oz 340-g) can corned beef, cut into cubes
1 cup (8 oz/225 g) pineapple chunks
4 oz/113 g sour cream
2 Tbsp chopped fresh cilantro
Heat the oil in a large frying pan over a low heat. Cover with a piece of parchment paper and the pan lid and gently sweat the onions, carrots, and potato in the hot oil for 5 minutes. Discard the parchment paper. Add the garlic, ginger, chilis, and spices, then the stock, tomatoes, and raisins. Cook for about 20 minutes, then add the corned beef and finish by stirring in the pineapple chunks, sour cream, and cilantro. Serve with cooked rice.
Cottage Pie
with Champ Topping
I am forever being asked what the difference is between cottage pie and shepherd’s pie and the answer is that you use lamb instead of beef to make a shepherd’s. This is very good, too, and reminds me so much of my childhood and a man called Connor MacTaggart, but you’ll have to read An Irish Country Girl to find out why.
Serves 4 to 6
1 Tbsp cooking oil
2 onions, chopped
1 large or 2 small carrots, peeled and grated
1 lb/455 g lean ground beef
1 Tbsp chopped fresh parsley
1 Tbsp tomato puree or ketchup
1 Tbsp Worcestershire sauce
1 Tbsp all-purpose flour
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
10 oz/295 ml beef stock
Champ (here)
Butter
Cheddar cheese, grated
Preheat the oven to 400°F/200°C. Fry the onions and carrot in the oil in a large pan over a low to medium heat, stirring occasionally, for a few minutes. Add the beef and cook for a further 20 to 30 minutes. The beef will be nice and brown now and will have released its fat. To make this pie less fattening for himself, and so that Alice Malony, the local dressmaker, does not be having to let his waistband out some more, I like to press the beef mixture into a sieve and let most of the fat run through. Return the beef to the pan and add the parsley, tomato puree, Worcestershire sauce, flour, salt and pepper to taste, and finally the beef stock. Now simmer it all for a few minutes and adjust the seasoning if necessary.
Pour into a well-greased 7 by 7-inch baking dish. Spread the champ topping over the top of the cooked beef mixture, dot the top with butter and cheese, and bake for about 25 minutes. The topping will have browned nicely. Serve.
Homity Pie
This recipe was given to me by Doctor O’Reilly when he came back from the war. He said that Marge Wilcoxson, who was the wife of his senior officer on HMS Warspite and who lived in Fareham near the hospital in Gosport where O’Reilly had been seconded for training in anaesthesia, used to make it. It was invented by the Land Girls using ingredients they could grow in the fields. The La
nd Girls was the nickname given to the Women’s Land Army set up in the first two world wars to recruit women to work on farms where men had left to go to war. This makes a substantial pie and would feed about six people.
Serves 6
PASTRY
4 oz/113 g butter
6½ oz/184 g all-purpose flour
¼ tsp cayenne pepper
A pinch of salt
A pinch of baking powder
3 oz/85 g strong cheddar cheese, grated
2½ Tbsp ice water
1½ Tbsp cider vinegar
FILLING
1¾ lb/800 g potatoes, peeled and cut into quarters
1 oz/28 g butter
1 Tbsp sunflower oil
3 onions, chopped
2 garlic cloves, crushed
6 oz/170 g strong cheddar cheese, coarsely grated
4 oz/113 g shredded spinach or broccoli florets
2 Tbsp chopped fresh parsley
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
A pinch of ground nutmeg
8 oz/235 ml heavy cream
FOR THE PASTRY:
Cut the butter into ¾-inch/2-cm cubes. Put in a plastic bag and freeze until solid. Place the flour, cayenne, salt, and baking powder in another plastic bag and freeze for at least a half hour.
Place the flour mixture in a food processor and process for a few seconds to combine. Add the cheese and pulse a few times. Now add the butter and pulse until the butter cubes are as small as peas. The mixture will be in loose particles. Add the water and vinegar and pulse briefly. Spoon it all back into the plastic bag. Hold the open end of the bag closed and knead the mixture with your other hand until it all holds together in one piece and feels stretchy when pulled. Remove the dough from the plastic bag and wrap it in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 45 minutes (but it will be better if you can leave it overnight).