CHAPTER XI.
THE MAN-MILLINER.
Gaston de Gandelu was much surprised at finding that Andre should beignorant of the existence of Van Klopen, the best-known man in Paris.To assure oneself of this, it was only necessary to glance at hiscirculars, which were ornamented with the representations of medals wonat all sorts of exhibitions in different quarters of the world, togetherwith various decorations received from foreign potentates. One hadbeen presented to him by the Queen of Spain, while he had a diplomaappointing him the supplier to the Court of the Czar. The great VanKlopen was not an Alsatian, as was generally supposed, but a stout,handsome Dutchman, who, in the year 1850, had been a tailor in his smallnative town, and manufactured in cloth, purchased on credit, thelong waistcoats and miraculous coats worn by the wealthy citizens ofRotterdam. Van Klopen, however, was not successful in his business, andwas compelled to close his shop and abscond from his creditors. He tookrefuge in Paris, where he seemed likely to die of hunger. One day overa magnificent establishment in the Rue de Grammont appeared a signboardwith the name of Van Klopen, dressmaker, and in the thousands ofhandbills distributed with the utmost profusion, he called himselfthe "Regenerator of Fashion." This was an idea that would have neveroriginated in the brain of the phlegmatic Dutchman, and whence came thefunds to carry on the business? On this point he was discreetly silent.The enterprise was at first far from a success, for during nearly amonth Paris almost split its sides laughing at the absurd pretensionsof the self-dubbed "Regenerator of Fashion." Van Klopen bent before thestorm he had aroused, and in due time his advertisements brought him twocustomers, who were the first to blow the trumpet of his fame. One wasthe Duchess de Suirmeuse, a very great lady indeed, and renowned for hereccentricities and extravagant manner, while the other was an example ofanother class being no less than the celebrated Jennie Fancy, who wasat that time under the protection of the Count de Tremouselle; andfor these two Van Klopen invented such dresses as had never beenseen before. From this moment his success was certain; indeed, it wasstupendous, and Paris resounded with his praises. Now he has achieved aworld-wide reputation, and has nothing to fear from the attacks of hisrivals. He would not execute orders for every one, saying that he mustpick and choose his customers, and he did so, excising the names ofsuch as he did not think would add to his reputation. Rank and wealthdisputed the honor of being his customers. The haughtiest dames did notshrink from entrusting to him secrets of form and figure, which theyeven hid from their husbands. They endured without shrinking the touchof his coarse hands as he measured them. He was the rage, and hisshowrooms were a species of neutral ground, where women of all circlesof society met and examined each other. The Duchess of --- did notshrink from being in the same room with the celebrated woman for whomthe Baron de --- had blown out the few brains he possessed. Perhaps theDuchess thought that by employing the same costumier, she might alsogain some of the venal beauteous attractions. Mademoiselle D---, of theGymnase Theatre, who was well known to earn just one thousand francs perannum, took a delight in astonishing the haughty ladies of fashion bythe reckless extravagance of her orders. Van Klopen, who was a borndiplomatist, distributed his favors between his different customers;consequently he was termed the most charming and angelic of men. Manya time had he heard the most aristocratic lips let fall the words, "Ishall die, Van Klopen, if my dress is not ready." On the evenings of themost aristocratic balls a long line of carriages blocked up the road infront of his establishment, and the finest women in Paris crowded theshowrooms for a word of approval from him.
He gave credit to approved customers, and also, it was whispered,lent money to them. But woe to the woman who permitted herself to beentrapped in the snare of credit that he laid for her; for the woman whoowed him a bill was practically lost, never knowing to what depths shemight be degraded to obtain the money to settle her account. It was notsurprising that such sudden prosperity should have turned Van Klopen'shead. He was stout and ruddy, impudent, vain, and cynical. His admirerssaid that he was witty.
It was to this man's establishment that Mascarin conducted Paul after asumptuous breakfast at Philipe's.
It is necessary to give a slight description of Van Klopen'sestablishment. Carpets of the most expensive description covered thestairs to his door on the first floor, at which stood the liveriedmenials resplendent in gold lace and scarlet. As soon as Mascarin madehis appearance, one of these gorgeous creatures hastened to him andsaid, "M. Van Klopen is just now engaged with the Princess Korasoff, butas soon as he hears of your arrival he will manage to get rid of her.Will you wait for him in his private room?"
But Mascarin answered,--
"We are in no hurry, and may as well wait in the public room with theother customers. Are there many of them?"
"There are about a dozen ladies, sir."
"Good; I am sure that they will amuse me."
And, without wasting any more words, Mascarin opened a door which ledinto a magnificent drawing-room, decorated in very florid style. Thepaper on the walls almost disappeared beneath a variety of watercolorsketches, representing ladies in every possible style of costume. Eachpicture had an explanatory note beneath it, such as "Costume of Mde.de C--- for a dinner at the Russian Ambassador's," "Ball costume of theMarchioness de V--- for a ball at the Hotel de Ville," etc.
Paul, who was a little nervous at finding himself among such splendor,hesitated in the doorway; but Mascarin seized his young friend by thearm, and, as he drew him to a settee, whispered in his ear,--
"Keep your eyes about you; the heiress is here."
The ladies were at first a little surprised at this invasion of theroom by the male element, but Paul's extreme beauty soon attracted theirattention. The hum of conversation ceased, and Paul's embarrassmentincreased as he found a battery of twelve pairs of eyes directed fullupon him.
Mascarin, however, was quite at his ease, and upon his entrance had madea graceful though rather old-fashioned bow to the fair inmates of theroom. His coolness was partly due to the contempt he felt for thehuman race in general, and also to his colored glasses, which hid theexpression of his countenance. When he saw that Paul still kept his eyeson the ground, he tapped him gently on the arm.
"Is this the first time you ever saw well-dressed women? Surely you arenot afraid of them. Look to the right," continued Mascarin, "and youwill see the heiress."
A young girl, not more than eighteen, was seated near one of thewindows. She was not perhaps so beautiful as Mascarin had described,but her face was a very striking one nevertheless. She was slight andgood-looking, with the clear complexion of a brunette. Her featureswere not perhaps very regular, but her glossy black hair was a beautyin itself. She had a pair of dark, melting eyes, and her wide, highforehead showed that she was gifted with great intelligence. There wasan air of restrained voluptuousness about her, and she seemed the veryembodiment of passion.
Paul felt insensibly attracted toward her. Their eyes met, and bothstarted at the same moment. Paul was fascinated in an instant, and thegirl's emotion was so evident that she turned aside her head to concealit.
The babel had now commenced again, and general attention was being paidto a lady who was enthusiastically describing the last new costume whichhad made its appearance in the Bois de Boulogue.
"It was simply miraculous," said she; "a real triumph of Van Klopen'sart. The ladies of a certain class are furious, and Henry de Croisenoistells me that Jenny Fancy absolutely shed tears of rage. Imagine threegreen skirts of different shades, each draped----"
Mascarin, however, only paid attention to Paul and the young girl, and asarcastic smile curled his lips.
"What do you think of her?" asked he.
"She is adorable!" answered Paul, enthusiastically.
"And immensely wealthy."
"I should fall at her feet if she had not a sou."
Mascarin gave a little cough, and adjusted his glasses.
"Should you, my lad?" said he to himself; "whether your admiration isfor the
girl or her money, you are in my grip."
Then he added, aloud,--
"Would you not like to know her name?"
"Tell me, I entreat you."
"Flavia."
Paul was in the seventh heaven, and now boldly turned his eyes on thegirl, forgetting that owing to the numerous mirrors, she could see hisevery movement.
The door was at this moment opened quietly, and Van Klopen appeared onthe threshold. He was about forty-four, and too stout for his height.His red, pimply face had an expression upon it of extreme insolence,and his accent was thoroughly Dutch. He was dressed in a ruby velvetdressing-gown, with a cravat with lace ends. A huge cluster-diamond ringblazed on his coarse, red hand.
"Who is the next one?" asked he, rudely.
The lady who had been talking so volubly rose to her feet, but thetailor cut her short, for catching sight of Mascarin, he crossed theroom, and greeted him with the utmost cordiality.
"What!" said he; "is it you that I have been keeping waiting? Praypardon me. Pray go into my private room; and this gentleman is with you?Do me the favor, sir, to come with us."
He was about to follow his guests, when one of the ladies startedforward.
"One word with you, sir, for goodness sake!" cried she.
Van Klopen turned sharply upon her.
"What is the matter?" asked he.
"My bill for three thousand francs falls due to-morrow."
"Very likely."
"But I can't meet it."
"That is not my affair."
"I have come to beg you will renew it for two months, or say one month,on whatever terms you like."
"In two months," answered the man brutally, "you will be no more able topay than you are to-day. If you can't pay it, it will be noted."
"Merciful powers! then my husband will learn all."
"Just so; that will be what I want; for he will then have to pay me."
The wretched woman grew deadly pale.
"My husband will pay you," said she; "but I shall be lost."
"That is not my lookout. I have partners whose interests I have toconsult."
"Do not say that, sir! He has paid my debts once, and if he should beangry and take my children from me--Dear M. Van Klopen, be merciful!"
She wrung her hands, and the tears coursed down her cheeks; but thetailor was perfectly unmoved.
"When a woman has a family of children, one ought to have in aneedlewoman by the hour."
She did not desist from her efforts to soften him, and, seizing hishand, strove to carry it to her lips.
"Ah! I shall never dare to go home," wailed she; "never have the courageto tell my husband."
"If you are afraid of your own husband, go to some one else's," said heroughly; and tearing himself from her, he followed Mascarin and Paul.
"Did you hear that?" asked he, as soon as he had closed the door of hisroom with an angry slam. "These things occasionally occur, and are notparticularly pleasant."
Paul looked on in disgust. If he had possessed three thousand francs, hewould have given them to this unhappy woman, whose sobs he could stillhear in the passage.
"It is most painful," remarked he.
"My dear sir," said the tailor, "you attach too much importance to thesehysterical outbursts. If you were in my place, you would soon have toput their right value on them. As I said before, I have to look aftermy own and my partners' interests. These dear creatures care for nothingbut dress; father, husband, and children are as nothing in comparison.You cannot imagine what a woman will do in order to get a new dress, inwhich to outshine her rival. They only talk of their families when theyare called on to pay up."
Paul still continued to plead for some money for the poor lady, and thediscussion was getting so warm that Mascarin felt bound to interfere.
"Perhaps," said he, "you have been a little hard."
"Pooh," returned the tailor; "I know my customer; and to-morrow myaccount will be settled, and I know very well where the money will comefrom. Then she will give me another order, and we shall have the wholecomedy over again. I know what I am about." And taking Mascarin intothe window, he made some confidential communication, at which they bothlaughed heartily.
Paul, not wishing to appear to listen, examined the consulting-room,as Van Klopen termed it. He saw a great number of large scissors, yardmeasures, and patterns of material, and heaps of fashion plates.
By this time the two men had finished their conversation.
"I had," said Mascarin, as they returned to the fireplace, "I had meantto glance through the books; but you have so many customers waiting,that I had better defer doing so."
"Is that all that hinders you?" returned Van Klopen, carelessly. "Wait amoment."
He left the room, and in another moment his voice was heard.
"I am sorry, ladies, very sorry, on my word; but I am busy with my silkmercer. I shall not be very long."
"We will wait," returned the ladies in chorus.
"That is the way," remarked Van Klopen, as he returned to theconsulting-room. "Be civil to women, and they turn their backs on you;try and keep them off, and they run after you. If I was to put up 'noadmittance' over my door, the street would be blocked up with women.Business has never been better," continued the tailor, producing a largeledger. "Within the last ten days we have had in orders amounting toeighty-seven thousand francs."
"Good!" answered Mascarin; "but let us have a look at the column headed'Doubtful.'"
"Here you are," returned the arbiter of fashion, as he turned overthe leaves. "Mademoiselle Virginie Cluhe has ordered five theatricalcostumes, two dinner, and three morning dresses."
"That is a heavy order."
"I wanted for that reason to consult you. She doesn't owe usmuch--perhaps a thousand francs or so."
"That is too much, for I hear that her friend has come to grief. Do notdecline the order, but avoid taking fresh ones."
Van Klopen made a few mysterious signs in the margin of his ledger.
"On the 6th of this month the Countess de Mussidan gave us an order--aperfectly plain dress for her daughter. Her account is a very heavy one,and the Count has warned us that he will not pay it."
"Never mind that. Go on with the order, put press for payment."
"On the 7th a new customer came--Mademoiselle Flavia, the daughter ofMartin Rigal, the banker."
When Paul heard this name, he could not repress a start, of which,however, Mascarin affected to take no notice.
"My good friend," said he, turning to Van Klopen, "I confide this younglady to you; give her your whole stock if she asks for it."
By the look of surprise which appeared upon the tailor's face, Paulcould see that Mascarin was not prodigal of such recommendations.
"You shall be obeyed," said Van Klopen, with a bow.
"On the 8th a young gentleman of the name of Gaston de Gandelu wasintroduced by Lupeaux, the jeweller. His father is, I hear, verywealthy, and he will come into money on attaining his majority, whichis near at hand. He brought with him a lady," continued the tailor, "andsaid her name was Zora de Chantemille, a tremendously pretty girl."
"That young man is always in my way," said Mascarin. "I would givesomething to get him out of Paris."
Van Klopen reflected for a moment. "I don't think that would bedifficult," remarked he; "that young fellow is capable of any act offolly for that fair girl."
"I think so too."
"Then the matter is easy. I will open an account with him; then, after alittle, I will affect doubts as to his solvency, and ask for a bill;and we shall then place our young friend in the hands of the MutualLoan Society, and M. Verminet will easily persuade him to write his nameacross the bottom of a piece of stamped paper. He will bring it to me; Iwill accept it, and then we shall have him hard and fast."
"I should have proposed another course."
"I see no other way, however," He suddenly stopped, for a loud noise washeard in the ante-room, and the sound of voices in loud content
ion.
"I should like to know," said Van Klopen, rising to his feet, "who theimpudent scoundrel is, who comes here kicking up a row. I expect that itis some fool of a husband."
"Go and see what it is," suggested Mascarin.
"Not I! My servants are paid to spare me such annoyances."
Presently the noise ceased.
"And now," resumed Mascarin, "let us return to our own affairs. Underthe circumstances, your proposal appears to be a good one. Howabout writing in another name? A little forgery would make our handsstronger." He rose, and taking the tailor into the window recess, againwhispered to him.
During this conversation Paul's cheek had grown paler and paler, for,occupied as he was, he could not fail to comprehend something of whatwas going on. During the breakfast Mascarin had partially disclosed manystrange secrets, and since then he had been even more enlightened. Itwas but too evident to him that his protector was engaged in some darkand insidious plot, and Paul felt that he was standing over a mine whichmight explode at any moment. He now began to fancy that there wassome mysterious link between the woman Schimmel, who was so carefullywatched, and the Marquis de Croisenois, so haughty, and yet on suchintimate terms with the proprietor of the registry office. Then therewas the Countess de Mussidan, Flavia, the rich heiress, and Gaston deGandelu, who was to be led into a crime the result of which would bepenal servitude,--all jumbled and mixed up together in one strangephantasmagoria. Was he, Paul, to be a mere tool in such hands? Towardwhat a precipice was he being impelled! Mascarin and Van Klopen were notfriends, as he had at first supposed, but confederates in villainy. Toolate did he begin to see collusion between Mascarin and Tantaine, whichhad resulted in his being accused of theft during his absence. But theweb had been woven too securely, and should he struggle to break throughit, he might find himself exposed to even more terrible dangers. He felthorrified at his position, but with this there was mingled no horror ofthe criminality of his associates, for the skilful hand of Mascarin hadunwound and mastered all the bad materials of his nature. He was dazzledat the glorious future held out before him, and said to himself that aman like Mascarin, unfettered by law, either human or Divine, would bemost likely to achieve his ends. "I should be in no danger," mused he tohimself, "if I yield myself up to the impetuous stream which is alreadycarrying me along, for Mascarin is practised swimmer enough to keep bothmy head and his own above water."
Little did Paul think that every fleeting expression in his countenancewas caught up and treasured by the wily Mascarin; and it wasintentionally that he had permitted Paul to listen to this compromisingconversation. He had decided that very morning, that if Paul was to be auseful tool, he must be at once set face to face with the grim realitiesof the position.
"Now," said he, "for the really serious reason for my visit. How do westand now with regard to the Viscountess Bois Arden?"
Van Klopen gave his shoulders a shrug as he answered, "She is all right.I have just sent her several most expensive costumes."
"How much does she owe you?"
"Say twenty-five thousand francs. She has owed us more than thatbefore."
"Really?" remarked Mascarin, "that woman has been grossly libelled; sheis vain, frivolous, and fond of admiration, but nothing more. For awhole fortnight I have been prying into her life, but I can't hitupon anything in it to give us a pull over her. The debt may help us,however. Does her husband know that she has an account with us?"
"Of course he does not; he is most liberal to her, and if he inquired--"
"Then we are all right; we will send in the bill to him."
"But, my good sir," urged Van Klopen, "it was only last week that shepaid us a heavy sum on account."
"The more reason to press her, for she must be hard up."
Van Klopen would have argued further, but an imperious sign fromMascarin reduced him to silence.
"Listen to me," said Mascarin, "and please do not interrupt me. Are youknown to the domestics at the house of the Viscountess?"
"Not at all."
"Well, then, at three o'clock sharp, the day after to-morrow, call onher. Her footman will say that Madame has a visitor with her."
"I will say I will wait."
"Not at all. You must almost force your way in, and you will findthe Viscountess talking to the Marquis de Croisenois. You know him, Isuppose?"
"By sight--nothing more."
"That is sufficient. Take no notice of him; but at once present yourbill, and violently insist upon immediate payment."
"What can you be thinking of? She will have me kicked out of doors."
"Quite likely; but you must threaten to take the bill to her husband.She will command you to leave the house, but you will sit down doggedlyand declare that you will not move until you get the money."
"But that is most unbusinesslike behavior."
"I quite agree with you; but the Marquis de Croisenois will interfere;he will throw a pocketbook in your face, exclaiming, 'There is yourmoney, you impudent scoundrel!'"
"Then I am to slink away?"
"Yes, but before doing so, you will give a receipt in thisform--'Received from the Marquis de Croisenois, the sum of so manyfrancs, in settlement of the account of the Viscountess Bois Arden.'"
"If I could only understand the game," muttered the puzzled Van Klopen.
"There is no necessity for that now; only act up to your instructions."
"I will obey, but remember that we shall not only lose her custom, butthat of all her acquaintance."
Again the same angry sounds were heard in the corridor.
"It is scandalous," cried a voice. "I have been waiting an hour;my sword and armor. What, ho, lackeys; hither, I say. Van Klopen isengaged, is he? Hie to him and say I must see him at once."
The two accomplices exchanged looks, as though they recognized theshrill, squeaky voice.
"That is our man," whispered Mascarin, as the door was violentlyflung open, and Gaston de Gandelu burst in. He was dressed even moreextravagantly than usual, and his face was inflamed with rage.
"Here am I," cried he; "and an awful rage I am in. Why, I have beenwaiting twenty minutes. I don't care a curse for your rules andregulations."
The tailor was furious at this intrusion; but as Mascarin was present,and he felt that he must respect his orders, he by a great effortcontrolled himself.
"Had I known, sir," said he sulkily, "that you were here----"
These few words mollified the gorgeous youth, who at once broke in.
"I accept your apologies," cried he; "the lackeys remove our arms, thejoust is over. My horses have been standing all this time, and may havetaken cold. Of course you have seen my horses. Splendid animals, arethey not? Zora is in the other room. Quick, fetch her here."
With these words he rushed into the passage and shouted out, "Zora,Mademoiselle de Chantemille, my dear one, come hither."
The renowned tailor was exquisitely uncomfortable at so terrible a scenein his establishment. He cast an appealing glance at Mascarin, but theface of the agent seemed carved in marble. As to Paul, he was quiteprepared to accept this young gentleman as a perfect type of the glassof fashion and the mould of form, and could not forbear pitying him inhis heart. He went across the room to Mascarin.
"Is there no way," whispered he, "of saving this poor young fellow?"
Mascarin smiled one of those livid smiles which chilled the hearts ofthose who knew him thoroughly.
"In fifteen minutes," said he, "I will put the same question to you,leaving you to reply to it. Hush, this is the first real test that youhave been subjected to; if you are not strong enough to go through it,then we had better say farewell. Be firm, for a thunderbolt is about tofall!"
The manner in which these apparently trivial words were spoken startledPaul, who, by a strong effort, recovered his self-possession; but,prepared as he was, it was with the utmost difficulty that he stifledthe expression of rage and surprise that rose to his lips at the sightof the woman who entered the room. The
Madame de Chantemille, the Zoraof the youthful Gandelu, was there, attired in what to his eyes seemeda most dazzling costume. Rose seemed a little timid as Gandelu almostdragged her into the room.
"How silly you are!" said he. "What is there to be frightened at? He isonly in a rage with his flunkies for having kept us waiting."
Zora sank negligently into an easy chair, and the gorgeously attiredyouth addressed the all-powerful Van Klopen.
"Well, have you invented a costume that will be worthy of Madame'scharms?"
For a few moments Van Klopen appeared to be buried in profoundmeditation.
"Ah," said he, raising his hand with a grandiloquent gesture, "I haveit; I can see it all in my mind's eye."
"What a man!" murmured Gaston in deep admiration.
"Listen," resumed the tailor, his eye flashing with the fire ofgenius. "First, a walking costume with a polonaise and a cape _ala pensionnaire_; bodice, sleeves, and underskirt of a brilliantchestnut----"
He might have continued in this strain for a long time, and Zora wouldnot have heard a word, for she had caught sight of Paul, and in spite ofall her audacity, she nearly fainted. She was so ill at ease, thatyoung Gandelu at last perceived it; but not knowing the effect that theappearance of Paul would necessarily cause, and being also rather dullof comprehension he could not understand the reason for it.
"Hold hard, Van Klopen, hold hard! the joy has been too much for her,and I will lay you ten to one that she is going into hysterics."
Mascarin saw that Paul's temper might blaze forth at any moment, andso hastened to put an end to a scene which was as absurd as it wasdangerous.
"Well, Van Klopen, I will say farewell," said he. "Good morning, madame;good morning, sir;" and taking Paul by the arm, he led him away by aprivate exit which did not necessitate their passing through the greatreception-room.
It was time for him to do so, and not until they were in the street didthe wily Mascarin breathe freely.
"Well, what do you say, now?" asked he.
Paul's vanity had been so deeply wounded, and the effort that he hadmade to restrain himself so powerful, that he could only reply by agasp.
"He felt it more than I thought he would," said Mascarin to himself."The fresh air will revive him."
Paul's legs bent under him, and he staggered so that Mascarin led himinto a little _cafe_ hard by, and ordered a glass of cognac, and in ashort time Paul was himself once again.
"You are better now," observed Mascarin; and then, believing it would bebest to finish his work, he added, "A quarter of an hour ago I promisedthat I would ask you to settle what our intentions were to be regardingM. de Gandelu."
"That is enough," broke in Paul, violently.
Mascarin put on his most benevolent smile.
"You see," remarked he, "how circumstances change ideas. Now you aregetting quite reasonable."
"Yes, I am reasonable enough now; that is, that I mean to be wealthy.You have no need to urge me on any more. I am willing to do whatever youdesire, for I will never again endure degradation like that I have gonethrough to-day."
"You have let temper get the better of you," returned Mascarin, with ashrug of his shoulders.
"My anger may pass over, but my determination will remain as strong asever."
"Do not decide without thinking the matter well over," answered theagent. "To-day you are your own master; but if you give yourself up tome, you must resign your dearly loved liberty."
"I am prepared for all."
Victory had inclined to the side of Mascarin, and he was proportionallyjubilant.
"Good," said he. "Then Dr. Hortebise shall introduce you to MartinRigal, the father of Mademoiselle Flavia, and one week after yourmarriage I will give you a duke's coronet to put on the panels of yourcarriage."