Within seconds we had left the center of town behind. The driver pointed the car in the direction of Middle-ham, following Andrew’s explicit instructions, and soon we were out in the open countryside again, making for West Tanfield. This was situated between Ripon and Middleham, but closer to the latter, a place renowned for its stables and the breeding and training of great racehorses; it was also a treasure trove of history, had been known as “the Windsor of the North” at the time of the Plantagenet kings, Edward IV and Richard III.
We continued to barrel along, following the winding country lanes and roads, narrow and a bit precarious under the shadow of those lonely, windswept moors. This morning they looked somber and implacable. In August and September they took on a wholly different aspect, resembling a sea of purple as wave upon wave of heather rippled under the perpetual wind; they were a breathtaking sight.
“We’re almost there,” I murmured half to myself as the car rolled over the old stone bridge which spanned the River Ure and led into the main street of West Tanfield. It was a typical dales village—charming, picturesque, and very, very old.
I glanced to my left to see the familiar view, a line of pretty stone cottages with red-tiled roofs standing on the banks of the Ure, their green sloping lawns running down to the edge of the river. And behind them, poised against the pale wintry sky, were the old Norman church and the Marmion Tower next to it, both surrounded by ancient oaks and ash and a scattering of evergreens.
I reached over and squeezed Andrew’s hand. I knew how much he loved this place.
He smiled at me and began to straighten his papers, quickly putting them back into his briefcase and closing it.
“Did you get a lot done?” I asked him.
“Yes, I did, and probably more than I would have in that damned office. I’m glad Ma put the screws on me yesterday, that I finally made up my mind we should spend the weekend with her. It’ll do us both good.”
“Yes, it will, and maybe we can go riding tomorrow.”
“That’s a good thought, Mal. We’ll zip up to Middleham and join the stable boys and grooms on the gallops when they’re exercising the racehorses. If you don’t mind getting up very early again.”
“I’m always up early, aren’t I?” I laughed. “But Andrew, how stupid I am. I’d forgotten—we don’t have our riding gear with us.”
“Don’t worry about that. I know I’ve got some historic old stuff at Ma’s from years ago. I’m sure it’s gungy, but it’ll do, and my mother will lend you a pair of her boots and old jeans or riding breeches. And she’s got masses of warm jackets, barbours, green Wellies, stuff like that. So we’ll manage.”
“Yes, it’ll be fine.” I studied him carefully and asked, “Does it feel good to be home?”
A small frown creased his smooth, wide brow as he returned my steady gaze. “These days, home for me is wherever you are, Mal. You and the twins.” He leaned into me, kissed my cheek, and added, “But yes, it does feel good to be back in Yorkshire, to come back to my birthplace. I suppose everybody must feel that way—that atavistic pull. It’s only natural, isn’t it?”
“Yes,” I agreed, and turning away from him, I looked straight ahead, peering over the driver’s shoulder and out the front window of the car. We had left the village behind a good ten minutes ago and had taken the road which led up to the moors of Coverdale and the high fells. Following a bend in the road, we turned a corner. Now I could see them straight ahead, the high stone wall and the wrought-iron gates which opened onto the long winding driveway leading up to Diana’s house.
CHAPTER FIFTEEN
We drove through the gates and progressed up the driveway rather slowly, since there were sheep and fallow deer wandering around the grounds, and the latter were skittish.
Far in the distance, I got just the merest glimpse of the house, of its tall chimneys poking up into the sky.
Its name was Kilgram Chase. It had always been called that, ever since its beginnings. Built in 1563, five years after Elizabeth I ascended to the throne, it was typically Tudor in style. A solid, stone house, it was square in shape yet graceful and with many windows, high chimneys, pitched gables, and a square tower built onto each of its four corners. In every crenellated tower there were only two mullioned windows, but these were huge and soaring, set one above the other, creating a highly dramatic effect and filling the tower rooms with extraordinary light.
Kilgram Chase stood in a large expanse of parkland, its green sweep of lawns and grazing pastures encircling the house, stretching up from the iron gates we had just left behind. Surrounding the edge of the park on three sides, to form a semicircular shape behind it, were dense woods, and rising up above these woods were the moors and, higher still, the great fells. Thus the house, the park, and the woods were cupped in a valley that protected them from the wind and weather in the winter months and, in times past, from political enemies and marauders, since the only access to the house and its park was through the front gates.
The first time I came here I had naturally been intrigued by Andrew’s childhood home. Diana had given me the grand tour, told me everything I wanted to know about the house and the family. She was proud of Kilgram Chase and an expert on its history.
Its unusual name came, in part, from the man who had built it 425 years ago, a Yorkshire warrior knight called Sir John Kilgram. A close friend of Robert Dudley, the Earl of Leicester, he was a member of Queen Elizabeth’s loyal faction, and one of the new men, as they were called, in palace politics. Kilgram had been given the great park and woods by Queen Elizabeth’s royal decree for special services to the Crown. But long before Elizabeth Tudor’s reign, when the Plantagenets had ruled, it had been a chase, that is, a stretch of open land where wild animals roamed and could be hunted by the local gentry. Later it was owned by the monks of nearby Fountains Abbey; they lost it when Elizabeth’s father, King Henry VIII, confiscated all lands owned by the church. After the dissolution of the monasteries it became the property of the Crown.
The house and its park had come to the Keswicks quite legally, through a marriage which took place in the summer of 1589. Sir John had an only child, a daughter named Jane, and when she married Daniel Keswick, the son of a local squire, he gave them Kilgram Chase as part of her dowry. It had been in the family’s possession ever since, passed down from generation to generation. One day it would belong to Andrew, and then to Jamie, and Jamie’s son, if he had one.
Diana called it a typical country manor and constantly protested that for all of its prestige and historical significance, it was by no means a grand house anymore, and this was true. Architecturally, it was extremely well designed, skillfully planned, even somewhat compact for this type of Tudor manor, and in comparison to some of the great homes of Yorkshire, it was small. Despite its size, for a long time now Diana had found it difficult to run, in many respects. Not the least of it was the cost in time and money for its overall upkeep. For these reasons she lived in only two wings and kept two closed most of the year.
The house was maintained with the help of Joe and Edith Parkinson, who had lived and worked at Kilgram Chase for over thirty years. With their daughter, Hilary Broadbent, they took care of all the interiors, in both the open and closed wings, and did the laundry and cooking. Joe was also the handyman; he did a certain amount of outdoor work as well, looking after Diana’s two horses and the sheep and mucking out the stables.
Hilary’s husband, Ben, and his brother Wilf were the two gardeners responsible for the grounds; they mowed the many lawns, tended the flower beds, pruned the trees in the orchard, cleaned the pond once a year, and made sure the walled rose garden remained the great beauty spot it had been for hundreds of years.
Roses were my favorite flowers, and I had always gravitated to this particular garden at Kilgram Chase. But I did not plan to visit it this trip; I knew it could only be bereft, without color or life, just as everything at Indian Meadows was brown and faded. It was a bleak period for a gardener like
me, these cold, cheerless months when the earth was hard as iron, the air sharp with frost, and all growing things lay dormant and still.
Glancing out the car window, I noticed that many of the giant oaks, which stood sentinel at intervals along the driveway, were already shedding their leaves, now that it was November and the first chill of winter had settled in. Everything was dying. Winter was a time of death in gardens and in the countryside; quite unexpectedly I felt melancholy, and I filled up with sadness. Shivering, I hunched further into my coat, pulling it tightly around me. But the death of the land in winter only meant its rebirth in the spring, I reminded myself, attempting to shake off this curious sense of sadness which had enveloped me. I shivered again. Some poor ghost just walked over my grave, I thought.
And in less than a moment it was gone, the sadness, for suddenly there was the house, rising up in front of us in all its glory. Kilgram Chase. It stood there under the shadow of the moors, proud and everlasting as it had been for four centuries, seemingly untouched by time. My heart lifted at the sight of the lovely old manor. Its pale stones gleamed golden in the clear morning air, and the many mullioned windows shone brightly in the sunlight. I lifted my eyes, saw smoke puffing out of the chimneys, curling up like strands of gray-blue ribbon thrown carelessly into that silky, shining sky.
How welcoming it looked in all its mellowness and charm—my husband’s ancestral home, the place where he had grown up.
The car had hardly come to a standstill in front of the house when the great oak door flew open and Diana appeared. She ran down the steps; her smile was wide, her face glowing with happiness at the sight of us alighting.
“Hi, Ma,” Andrew cried, waving to her.
I rushed toward her and hugged her close. “Diana!”
“Aren’t you the best girl in the whole wide world,” she greeted me, “getting this obstinate son of mine to come up here after all.”
Laughing, I pulled away from her and shook my head. “Not me, I didn’t persuade him, Diana. He had a change of heart on his own accord. Late last night, far too late to call you. And we left so early this morning, at six, we didn’t want to disturb you. That’s why we asked the hall porter to phone. He did, didn’t he?”
“Yes, darling.” Turning to her son, she embraced him and went on, “As long as you’re both here, that’s all that matters. We’ll have a nice cozy weekend together, and I know Parky plans to spoil you both.”
Andrew grinned at her. “We expected nothing less.” Leaning closer, he said, “Before I let the car go, should I ask the driver to come back for us tomorrow night? Or can we cadge a lift to town with you on Monday morning?”
“Of course you can. Anyway, it’s hardly worth coming up here, if you don’t stay through Sunday night. And I’ll be glad to have your company and Mal’s on the way back to London. In fact, you can drive part of the way, Andrew dear.”
“You bet,” he said, “and thanks, Ma. There’s just one thing: We’ll have to leave here fairly early on Monday morning. About six-thirty. Is that all right?”
“I usually set out about that time,” Diana answered.
Andrew nodded and hurried off to speak to the driver.
Diana took hold of my arm and drew me toward the stone steps leading up to the front door. Joe Parkinson was hovering at the top of them. He came striding down.
“Morning, Mrs. Andrew,” he said, giving me a big smile. “It’s lovely to have you back, by gum it is.”
“Thank you, Joe, I’m really glad we could come up for the weekend.”
“I’ll just get along, help Mr. Andrew with the luggage.” And so saying Joe moved down the steps, calling out, “Nay, Mr. Andrew, I’ll do that. Let me handle them there suitcases.”
I glanced back over my shoulder and saw Andrew and Joe shaking hands, greeting each other affectionately. Andrew had been eight years old when the Parkinsons had come to work at Kilgram Chase. Joe had taught him so much about the countryside and nature, and they had always been firm friends. As Andrew said, Joe was the salt of the earth, a real Yorkshireman through and through, hardworking, canny, wise, and loyal.
“It’s a raw morning,” Diana said, shivering and pulling her cardigan around her. “Come on, let’s go in and have a cup of tea.”
Waiting for us in the small entrance hall were Edith Parkinson, Joe’s wife, whom Andrew had called Parky since childhood, and her daughter, Hilary. Both women welcomed me warmly, and I returned their greetings.
Parky said, “If only the little ones were with you, Mrs. Andrew, they’d be a sight for sore eyes.”
Smiling at her, I said, “Don’t forget, they’ll be here next month for Christmas, Parky. In fact, we’re planning on staying through the New Year. Mr. Andrew promised.”
“That’s just wonderful,” Parky exclaimed, beaming at me. “I can’t wait to see the wee bairns.” Glancing at Diana, she added, “We’ll have to have a big Christmas tree this year, Mrs. Keswick, and maybe Joe’ll play Santa Claus, get dressed up in his red Santa suit and whiskers, like he does for the Sunday school class at the church.”
“Yes, that’s a marvelous idea,” Diana agreed. Taking my coat, she hung it up in the hall closet. “Now, let’s go into the kitchen, Mal. Parky’s been busy for the last hour whipping up all sorts of things. Andrew’s favorites, of course.”
The kitchen at Kilgram Chase was as old as the house itself, and it had altered little over the years. Painted cool white, it was long in shape. The ceiling was low and intersected with dark wood beams. The floor was still covered with the original flagstones, so ancient they were worn in places by the steps of centuries, steps which had gone from the fireplace to the window and across to the door, and back and forth, time and time again, so that deep grooves now scored the stones.
The fireplace at the far end of the kitchen was high to the ceiling and wide, made of local brick and stone and braced with old wood beams to match the ceiling. It had a great, raised hearth, an overhanging mantel shelf, and old-fashioned baking ovens set in the wall next to the actual fireplace. The ovens had not been used for years and years; long ago Diana had installed a wonderful Aga, that marvelous English cooking stove I would give my eyeteeth for. I agreed with her that this was the best stove in the world, and it also helped to keep the rather large kitchen warm the year round. It was welcome, since the kitchen with its thick old walls and stone floor was always cool even in the summer months.
A butler’s pantry, which opened off the kitchen, had been updated and remodeled by Diana, so that it better served her and Parky. She had put in a double-sized refrigerator, two dishwashers, and countertops for food preparation; above the counters were lots of cabinets for storing china as well as all of those practical items that made the wheels of a kitchen turn.
A series of mullioned casement windows opened onto a view of the back lawns, the pond, and the ever-present moors reaching up to touch the edge of the sky. Opposite the window wall an antique Welsh dresser took pride of place, and this lovely old piece was filled to overflowing with willow-patterned china of blue and white. Nearby, in the center of the room, there was an old-fashioned country table with a deal top and stumpy legs, where Andrew and I now sat. A green Majolica jug filled to the brim with branches of bittersweet stood on the table, and I couldn’t help thinking how perfect it looked.
Marching along the mantel shelf was a diverse collection of wood and brass candlesticks in the barley-twist style bearing white beeswax candles, and underneath the mantel were all kinds of horse brass that glittered and winked in the bright firelight. And everywhere there was the sparkle of copper in such things as jelly and fish molds and pots and pans all hanging from a rack on the ceiling, and in ladles, spoons, and measuring scoops on a side table.
I had always loved this kitchen, thought it one of the most welcoming I had ever seen; it was not only cheerful in its ambience but comfortable as well. As Diana said, it was the hub of the house, a room you could easily live in.
Diana was over
by the Aga stove making a pot of tea; she carried this over to the table but suggested we let it stand for a few moments.
“Aye, that’s right, Mrs. Andrew, don’t pour it yet, it has to mash,” Parky instructed.
“Yes, Parky,” I said dutifully and smiled at Andrew. She had been telling me this for ten years.
Pervading the air in the kitchen was the tantalizing smell of bacon sizzling on top of the Aga and the mouthwatering aroma of freshly baked bread just out of the oven. Parky had left the loaves and tea cakes to cool for a few minutes on one of the countertops, and the mere smell made me salivate.
Swinging around to face us, Parky said, “In case you haven’t guessed, I’m going to make bacon butties. Your favorites, Mr. Andrew.” She smiled at him fondly before turning back to her task of lifting the bacon out of the frying pan and onto a large platter. Parky had mothered him as a little boy, and he had been like a second child to her in some respects.
“What a treat, Parky,” Andrew exclaimed, and added to me, “You’ve got to make them for me, Mal, when we’re home at Indian Meadows.”
Diana joined us at the table and poured the steaming hot tea into big blue-and-white cups, and a moment later Parky was beside her, serving the bacon butties. These were thick slices of the warm new bread, spread with butter and with rashers of the fried bacon between the slices—hot bacon sandwiches, really.
“Here goes my cholesterol!” Andrew groaned cheerfully, “But oh, God, how wonderful!” he added after taking the first bite.
“I know, they’re sinful,” Diana said, laughing, then cautioned, “But don’t eat too many, Parky’s making fish cakes and parsley sauce for lunch.”