CHAPTER TWELVE.
OUR JOURNEY CONTINUED--BEAUTIFUL SCENERY--PREPARING TO CROSS THEPARAMO--DESCRIPTION OF A PARAMO--COMMENCE THE PASSAGE--SKELETONS OF MENAND MULES--INTENSITY OF THE COLD--ANTONIO SUFFERS GREATLY--HE RECOVERSBY DRINKING A DRAUGHT OF COLD WATER--DARKNESS--OUR SUFFERINGS ON THEINCREASE--A STRONG INCLINATION TO SLEEP--I SINK TO THE GROUND--LIONAROUSES ME--WE REACH THE TAMBO--A NIGHT IN THE HUT--INTENSE COLD--DAYLIGHT AT LAST--OUR PASSAGE ACROSS THE PARAMO--SAD SIGHTS--THE DESCENTOF THE MOUNTAINS--REACHING A FOREST--PADILLO GOES OFF TO OBTAININTELLIGENCE--WE BUILD A HUT, AND GO TO SLEEP--OUR HUT ON FIRE--A NARROWESCAPE.
For several days we had been travelling westward over the mountains.The young Indian, Padillo, as he called himself, had proved a faithfulguide. If we were pursued, we had evaded our enemies, and, we hoped,had done so effectually. The scenery through which we passed wasextremely wild and grand. Round us appeared mountains piled onmountains, rocks heaped on rocks; and when we fancied that we hadreached the summit of an elevation whence we could look down below,another mountain, more grand and terrific, appeared through the veil ofmist which before had shrouded it from our sight. It seemed as if weshould never escape from this chaos of rocky pinnacles and snow-coveredheights. The sky above us was of a clear, bright blue; in some placesbeautifully streaked, and varied with a silvery hue or pale strawcolour, but not a cloud dimming its lustre. Severe as was the cold, aswe were in constant exercise we scarcely felt it; while the rarity ofthe air imparted wonderful lightness and elasticity to our frames, sothat sometimes I could scarcely help leaping and bounding forward. Atnight we generally found shelter in a cave or under an overhangingrock--always keeping up a blazing fire, to scare wild beasts, as well asto afford us warmth.
At last we reached the entrance of a gloomy valley, between lofty andsnow-topped mountains, their sides in some places almost perpendicular.
"We must be prepared to push rapidly across the Paramo," observedPadillo. "It is late in the year, and I do not altogether like the lookof the weather. We shall require two days at least to get to thefurther end. Frequently three days are occupied by persons onhorseback, but you march so quickly that we may do it in less time; andthere is a tambo about midway where we can obtain shelter."
"Cross it we must, at all risks," answered Uncle Richard, who wasespecially eager to get back to the neighbourhood of Popayan, toascertain how his family were faring. He intended also to try and raisea corps.
It was not without reason that we dreaded passing across this bleakregion. The name of Paramo is given to those inhospitabledesert-regions high up among the mountains, of which there are so manyin the Andes. No human being can exist in them without keeping inincessant and violent motion. Artificial means are incapable ofsustaining life while a person is exposed to the inclement air. Ardentspirits are entirely void of any good effect, and generally increase theevil consequences. These Paramos are usually long deep valleys betweenlofty elevations, so shut in and obscured by the neighbouring hills asto possess all the severities of their extreme height, while not a rayof sunshine can enter to shed its gentle influence through them. Deathalmost invariably overtakes those who attempt to rest in themunsheltered at night. The extent of some of them is so great that itrequires two or three days to cross them; and in these small houses havebeen erected, in which cooking utensils and other articles ofconvenience are kept for the accommodation of travellers, as well asstabling for their mules. Here, by means of large fires, they maymanage to keep themselves warm, though even then people suffer greatly.
In consequence of the highly rarefied air, the traveller at firstexperiences great difficulty in breathing, accompanied by a sharp,piercing pain at each inspiration. This increases until he becomes whatthe natives call "emparamento,"--when his extremities are benumbed, andhe can no longer continue in motion. Soon after this he is seized withviolent raving and delirium; froth issues from his mouth; he tears theflesh from his hands and arms with his teeth, pulls his hair, and beatshimself against the ground, meanwhile uttering the most piercing cries,until he is quite exhausted. The cold then deprives him of all motionand feeling, his body becomes much swollen, and fearful distortion ofthe features is produced by the dreadful convulsions he is suffering,while the surface of his skin becomes nearly black. The only remedy thenatives know of is to scourge each other, and to drink the cold waterfrom the springs, which are found here and there in most of the Paramos.
We had all of us heard this account of the Paramos, and were fullyprepared for the danger we must encounter. Being on foot, we should thebetter be able to keep ourselves warm; at the same time, we should bethe longer exposed to the piercing wind. Already, as we mounted towardsthis fearful region, we began to experience unpleasant sensations whenbreathing.
Having taken an ample breakfast, we determined to push on to the tambo,where we must rest until the following morning. It was most importantto reach it before dark, for should we be benighted our position wouldbecome critical in the extreme. Nerving ourselves for the undertaking,we marched forward. Providentially there was but little wind. As weadvanced we saw the skeletons and carcasses of numerous mules; someperfectly blanched by the wind, others still partly covered with flesh,on which numberless galenachas, or black vultures, were busily feasting.The stench proceeding from others not long dead, close to which we hadto pass, was most offensive.
"At all events, no human beings appear to have died here," I observed toour guide.
"Don't say that, until you have got further," he answered.
In a few minutes we came in sight of a grinning skull placed on the topof a rock, the body lying below it. A few steps further on we came uponthe skeletons of several persons lying with their legs across theirmules; both the animal and its rider having evidently succumbed at thesame moment.
"This does not look pleasant," observed Uncle Richard; "but we must notallow it to depress our spirits."
In spite, however, of the severe exertions we were making, we felt thecold every instant becoming greater. Antonio, though apparently asstrong as any of us, became so benumbed that he could scarcely walk. Hehad brought a small flask of aguardiente, which he confessed he haddrained to the bottom, but it had apparently had a bad effect on him.At length his sufferings became so great that we began to fear we mustleave him behind, as to carry him on to the tambo would be impossible;though, if left behind, he would certainly die in a few minutes. Whilehe was in this state, Padillo volunteered to go forward, recollectingthat there was a spring in the neighbourhood, and urging us to try andreach it. In a short time Padillo returned with the information thatthe spring was only a little way on; so, while Uncle Richard took one ofAntonio's arms, I took the other, and Padillo, with a stick, keptbeating him severely about the body. Whenever Antonio cried out,Padillo answered, "Never mind, friend, never mind; it's all for yourgood." At length, what with pinching his arms, and Padillo'sflagellation, he was kept alive until we reached the spring. Here wecompelled him to drink a draught of water, though at first he showed agreat unwillingness to swallow it, like a person afflicted withhydrophobia. In a wonderfully short time, however, he perfectlyrecovered, and declared that he felt warm and comfortable.
Uncle Richard and I then tried the experiment, as we were beginning tofeel the sensations Antonio had at first complained of. The attempt,however, was extremely painful; indeed, I felt as if I had swallowed ahandful of needles, the which were pricking and tearing the wholeinterior of my throat in their passage downwards. Directly I hadswallowed the water, however, I began to feel a comfortable glow, whichin a short time spread equally over me.
The delay, however, might have been fatal to all of us, as darkness hadalready begun to spread over the deep valley, and we could see no tamboahead. From the experience we had had, we were sure we could not restanywhere for an instant, while the danger was great in proceeding in thedark. Still Padillo said he could find the way, and led us on at aswinging trot, we doing our utmost to keep up with him; often,
however,I felt a strong inclination to sink down and enjoy a short sleep, ifonly for a minute or two. I thought that I should soon catch up mycompanions. The wind had increased, too, and a thick sleet drovethrough the air, which made us feel as if pins and needles were stickingin our faces.
"This is very unpleasant," cried Uncle Richard; "but it won't last forever, that's one comfort."
The darkness increased, and the thought that we should have to go onthrough such weather as this during the whole night was terrible.
Padillo was leading. Uncle Richard made Antonio walk before him; I,with Lion, who kept close to my heels, continued talking to UncleRichard for some time, until the desire to stop suddenly overpowered me.
"I hope we shall soon reach the hut," I said.
"Cheer up--in a few minutes we shall be there," I heard Uncle Richardsay, and at that instant I sank to the ground. I heard the footsteps ofmy companions as they moved on; but, seized with a kind of insanity, Iflattered myself that after a few minutes' rest I should be able to getup and follow them. For some time, as it appeared to me, though it mayhave been only for a moment or two, my senses completely left me; then Ibecame conscious that Lion had placed himself above me, and was lickingmy hands and face. Then I heard him utter a loud bark; after which hebegan to pull at my clothes, and bark louder and louder, until hesucceeded in arousing me. Mercifully, I had still strength sufficientto get up; and as I did so, Lion still pulling at my trousers, I heardUncle Richard's voice shouting out, "Duncan! Duncan! come along."Presently he appeared through the gloom; when he took my hand, and Istumbled forward.
Soon afterwards we heard Padillo shout out, "The tambo, the tambo!"
Though we could not see him, guided by his voice we made our way to thehut. Antonio had already got in and thrown himself on the ground, butUncle Richard roused him up, and compelled him to assist in lighting thefire. We soon had a genial blaze, at which we warmed our chilled limbs.I saw Lion looking up in my face, as much as to say, "Master, that wasa foolish thing you did just now; in another minute you would have beendead, had I not kept some warmth in you with my body." I patted hishead, and he wagged his tail, and smiled as dogs can smile when pleased.In spite of the blazing fire we kept up all night, we felt the coldgreatly. Indeed, I had never felt so chilled in all my life; it seemedto pierce to the very marrow. Lion lay down close to the fire, andalmost singed his hair, showing that he too was suffering from the cold.
Fearing that the fire might go out, Uncle Richard insisted that one ofus should remain awake; and he himself undertook to keep the firstwatch. We first took our supper, but I fell asleep with a piece of foodin my mouth. The training Uncle Richard had had at sea enabled him tokeep awake, although I dare say he was as sleepy as any of us.
He at last aroused me, and charged me not to let the fire get low. "Ican trust you better than I can Antonio or the guide," he observed."However strong may be your impulse to sleep, do not yield to it, as ourlives may depend on the fire being kept up."
I promised to keep a faithful watch, and, rising to my feet, began towalk about. In a moment more Uncle Richard was fast asleep. So strongwas the desire I felt to lie down and close my eyes, that I was afraidof stopping, and kept pacing up and down the hut, rubbing my handstogether, and every now and then putting on an additional stick, orscraping up the ashes. The time passed slowly by; the wind moaned amidthe bleak crags which overtopped the hut, and I fancied I heard thecries of wild beasts. The sleepers, overcome with fatigue, did not evenmove, and as I gazed at them they looked as if stretched out in death.Every now and then, however, Lion lifted up his head, as if to see thatall was right; and just as my watch was over, and I was about to callAntonio, he got up and stretched himself. "Now, Lion, if Antonio dropsasleep, remember to call me or Uncle Richard. I will trust you, gooddog. You understand?" Lion wagged his tail, and gave a low bark; and Ifelt confident that he would do as I had ordered him.
I then called Antonio, and gave him the same instructions and warningwhich Uncle Richard had given me.
"Do not fear, senor," he answered--giving, however, an ominous yawn;"I'll keep my eyes open."
Trusting more to Lion than Antonio, I lay down, and in a few seconds wasagain fast asleep. How long I had remained in that state I could nottell, when I heard Lion bark close to my ear, and felt him pulling at myclothes. On sitting up, I saw that the fire had burned much lower thanit was when I gave up my watch, and that Antonio was asleep. I quicklyroused him up.
"It was but for a moment, senor; my eyelids are so very heavy."
"Look at the fire!" I exclaimed. "It must have been a very long momentsince you put anything on. Now, help me to make it up."
We soon had the fire blazing brightly again, and Antonio promised tokeep awake until daylight. Had it not been for Lion, I should not havetrusted him. He probably was not aware that the dog had aroused me.
Again I heard Lion bark loudly. The fire, as before, had burned down,and Antonio was again asleep; but on looking out of the door I foundthat day had broken. I was convinced that Lion had been observing thefire rather than Antonio--considering it his duty to watch it--and thathe had called me simply because he saw that it ought to be made up.
I now awakened the whole party, and by the time we had eaten a heartybreakfast the light had increased sufficiently to enable us to continueour journey.
We encountered the same sad sights as on the previous day. There werefewer animals, but many more dead bodies,--some evidently, from theirdress, being those of women and children.
"They are those of unfortunate people who were attempting to escape fromthe Godos," observed Padillo. "The mountains hereabouts are full of theskeletons of those who have thus perished. But Heaven will punish ouroppressors."
All we saw must have died on their first day's journey across theParamo. Those only who had strong mules, or who had found shelter inthe tambo, could have escaped. But it would not do to allow ourthoughts to dwell upon the subject. Our business was to push on as fastas our legs would carry us. Directly we felt any of the sensations wehad experienced on the previous day, we drank at the nearest stream wecould reach, but we did not stop to take food.
At length the fearful Paramo was passed; and yet this was only half thesize of many which exist in the country. Before dark we reached a tambosituated at a lower level and exposed to the free air, but even there wefelt it very cold. In a few days we were rapidly descending, and atlast found ourselves almost on a level with the valley of the Cauca,enjoying a tropical temperature, and on the borders of a dense forest.By keeping more to our left we should have continued along the road toAntioquia, but we were uncertain which party then possessed that town.Padillo, however, volunteered to ascertain this while we remained in theforest. We had already paid him his well-deserved reward, with which heseemed highly satisfied.
He had been absent some time, and we were anxiously waiting his return.
"I am afraid he has been seized by the Spaniards, or compelled toconduct one of their parties over the mountains," I observed.
"He'll not come back, depend on that," remarked Antonio. "He hasfulfilled his engagement, and will not trouble himself further aboutus."
"I will trust the man; and if he can, he will return," said UncleRichard. "Here he comes, too!"
Presently Padillo was seen hurrying towards us. "The Godos havepossession of all the towns and villages in this neighbourhood," hesaid. "If you wish to avoid them, you must keep further down the valleybefore you cross the Cauca, and then continue up the other side. I wishthat I could remain with you, but I know nothing of those westernmountains, and should be of no use as a guide."
He now finally took his leave, promising not to forget us.
Following his advice, we commenced our journey through the forest,--often having to cut our way with our swords, and sometimes to wadeacross rapid streams which threatened to carry us off our legs. We rana risk, too, of being bitten by serpents; several of those we ob
servedbeing of large size, and others of an especially venomous character.Tribes of monkeys were seen on either side of us, leaping from bough tobough, and swinging on the sipos--sometimes running forward jabberingand grinning, as if excited with anger at our daring to invade theirdomains. As our food had run short, we were compelled to shoot a coupleof the rogues for supper.
Night approaching, we made preparations for camping. We had to guardnot only against human enemies, but against jaguars, pumas, prowlingbears, and snakes. But having cleared a space of sufficient size, weran some sticks into the ground, which were interwoven with smallerbranches, so close together that no jaguar could thrust in its paw, or abear its snout, nor could any but the smallest snake crawl in. We thenthatched it over with large leaves of sufficient thickness to keep outthe heaviest rain. As close to the entrance as we dared we piled upsticks, that we might keep a fire blazing all night. There wascertainly some little risk in having a fire, as it might attract theattention of any Spaniards in the neighbourhood; but we believed that wewere so far off a highroad that no enemies were likely to discover us.
Uncle Richard and I discussed our plans for the future, leaving Antonioto go to sleep, that he might be the better able to watch when it cameto his turn. We alternately went to sleep for some hours, until wethought Antonio could be trusted to keep the regular watch.
I was awakened by Lion's loud bark, and by feeling him pulling at myclothes. Seeing that I was aroused, he next attacked Uncle Richard inthe same way. On sitting up, what was my dismay to find that we were inthe midst of a bright blaze! The hut was on fire. Antonio, in order tosave himself trouble, had raked the embers close up to the entrance, andhad then fallen asleep. Uncle Richard, seizing him by the shoulders,dragged him out; while I caught up his gun and the rest of ourpossessions, and sprang after him through the flames, followed by Lion,who would not leave the hut until he saw us in safety. The whole,however, was the work of a few seconds. Had we remained much longer,the roof would have come down upon us, and, at all events, have burnedus severely. As it was, we got pretty well singed.
As we looked back and saw the flames ascending, we had good cause tofear that the trees overhead would catch fire; and if so, a fearfulconflagration might ensue. It would be scarcely possible to cut our waythrough the forest so as to escape it. The danger, therefore, wasimminent. Uncle Richard setting the example, we attacked the thatch,and brought it to the ground; while with our swords we cut the grassaround wherever we saw the fire creeping along the ground.
A few minutes more, and we should have been unable to subdue the fire.Already some of the shrubs were singed in two opposite directions, butfortunately we saw the snake-like flames creeping forward in time toextinguish them.
As there was no appearance of rain, we scraped the ashes of the firetogether, and placing on them a few unburnt sticks, sat ourselves downclose to it to wait until daylight, without which it would be impossibleto travel through the forest.