CHAPTER THIRTEEN.
ARRIVAL AT JAVA.
I was very sorry to have to part from my brother William, and not alittle so from that merriest of merry midshipmen, Toby Trundle.
"We shall meet again one of these days, Trundle," I said, as I warmlyshook hands with him. "I hope it will be in smooth water, too; we havehad enough of the rough together."
I did my best to express to the captain and officers of the _Phoebe_ mysense of the kindness with which they had treated me from the firstmoment I had stepped on board their frigate to the last. We all sailedtogether, the men-of-war and their prize, to proceed to the Mauritius,then to refit and get ready for the expedition to Java. We also werebound for Java, but intended first to visit Antongil Bay for the purposeof trading with the natives. I was pleased to find myself among my oldshipmates again. They had had no sickness on board, and not a man hadbeen lost. The officers were the same in character, while theirindividual peculiarities seemed to stand out more prominently thanbefore.
We found the natives at Antongil Bay very honourable in their dealings.Many of the chiefs spoke French perfectly well, and looked likeFrenchmen. They were, we found, indeed, descendants of some of theCount Benyowsky's followers, who had married native women. The childrenof such marriages were generally highly esteemed by the natives, who hadraised them to the rank of chiefs. From what I saw of all classes ofthe natives of Madagascar, but especially of the upper ranks, I shouldsay that they were capable of a high state of civilisation, and I see noreason why they should not some day take their place among the civilisednations of the east. When that time will come it is impossible to say.Neither adventurers, like the brave and talented Benyowsky, nor Frenchsettlements, will bring it about. One thing, indeed, only can produceit--that is, the spread and the firm establishment of true Christianityamong the people.
Some days after our departure we had a distant view of the island ofRodriguez. In about a fortnight afterwards we were glad to put on warmclothing instead of the light dress suitable to the tropics; yet we wereonly in the same parallel of latitude as Madeira. It showed us how muchkeener is the air of the southern hemisphere than that of the northern.We soon after fell in with the monsoon, or trade wind, which sent usflying along at a good rate; till early in August, on a bright morning,the look-out at the mast-head shouted at the top of his voice, "Land ho!Land ahead!" It was the north-west cape of New Holland, or Australia,a region then, as even to the present day, almost a _terra incognita_ toEuropeans. As we neared it, we curiously looked out with our glassesfor some signs of the habitations of men, but nothing could be seen tolead us to suppose that human beings were to be found there. The shorewas low, sandy, and desolate, without the least intermixture of trees orverdure. A chain of rocks, over which the sea broke furiously, linedthe coast. We continued in sight of this most inhospitable-looking landtill the next morning. I could not help thinking of the vast extent ofcountry which intervened between the shore at which we were gazing andthe British settlement at Port Jackson, of which we had lately heardsuch flattering accounts. Was it a region flowing with milk and honey?one of lakes and streams, or of lofty mountains? did it contain one vastinland sea, or was it a sandy desert of burning sands, impassable forman?
This was a problem some of my emigrant friends had been discussing, andwhich I longed to see solved. After losing sight of the coast of NewHolland, we had to keep a bright look-out, as we were in the supposedneighbourhood of certain islands which some navigators, it was reported,had seen, but no land appeared. One clear night we found ourselvessuddenly, it seemed, floating in an ocean of milk, or more properly,perhaps, a thick solution of chalk in water. The surface was quiteunruffled, nor was there the slightest mixture of that phosphoricappearance often seen on a dark night when the sea is agitated. The airwas still, though it was not quite a calm, and the sky was perfectlyclear. It took us some hours to slip through it. We drew up some inbuckets, and found it to contain a small, scarcely perceptible, portionof a fine filamentous substance, quite transparent, such as I haveoccasionally seen where seaweed is abundant. Whether this was the causeof the milky appearance of the sea or not we could not determine. Wewere now sailing almost due north, for the Straits of Bally, as thepassage is called between that small island and the east end of themagnificent island of Java. About the middle of August, early in themorning, again land was seen from the mast-head, and in a few hours weentered the Straits I have just mentioned. We could see the shores onboth sides, that of Bally somewhat abrupt, while the Java shore,agreeably diversified by clumps of cocoa-nut trees and hills clothedwith verdure, looked green and smiling, contrasting agreeably with thatof New Holland, which we had so lately left. A large number of smallboats or canoes were moving about in all directions, those under sailgoing at great speed. They were painted white, had one sail, and werefitted with outriggers. We had to keep a bright look-out lest we shouldrun suddenly into the jaws of any French or Dutch man-of-war, which,escaping from our cruisers, might be pleased to snap up a richly-ladenmerchantman like the _Barbara_. We could not tell at the time whetherthe proposed expedition had arrived, or, if it had, whether it had beensuccessful.
As we were coasting along, a hill appeared in sight, early in themorning, the summit thickly surrounded by clouds. As this nightcap ofvapours cleared away, a remarkable cone was exposed to view, the basecovered with the richest vegetation. Soon after this we got soentangled among clusters of rocky islands and coral reefs that we werevery much afraid we should be unable to extricate ourselves, and thatour ship would get on shore. Though there was not much risk of ourlosing our lives, the dread of having our ship and cargo destroyed wasenough to make us anxious. Fortunately the wind fell, and by keepinglook-outs at each fore-yard-arm and at the mast-head, we were able toperceive the dangers with which we were surrounded before we ran on anyof them. At length we got into seemingly more clear water, but therebeing still several reefs and islands outside of us, Captain Hassallthought it prudent to anchor for the night. The shore off which we laywas lined with cocoa-nut and other palm-trees, rivulets were seenflowing down the sides of the hills, which were clothed withspice-bearing and other shrubs, the whole landscape presenting a sceneof great tropical beauty.
"If I ever had to cast anchor anywhere on shore, that's the sort ofcountry I should choose, now," observed Benjie Stubbs, our secondofficer, who had been examining the coast for some time through hisglass.
"I wouldn't change one half-acre of any part of our principality for athousand of its richest acres," said David Gwynne, our surgeon, to whomhe spoke. "Poets talk of the spicy gales of these islands; in mostcases they come laden with miasma-bearing fevers and agues on theirwings; while it a fellow has to live on shore he gets roasted by day,with a good chance of a sunstroke, and he is stewed at night, and bittenby mosquitoes and other winged and crawling things, and wakes to find acobra de capella or green snake gliding over his face."
"Oh, a man would soon get accustomed to those trifling inconveniences,as the natives must do; and money goes a long way in these regions forall the necessaries of life," answered Stubbs.
I must confess that, lovely as I had heard are many parts of thoseeastern isles, I was inclined to agree with the surgeon.
It was discovered this evening that in consequence of the heat, or fromcareless coopering, our water-casks had let out their contents, and thatwe had scarcely any fresh water in the ship. At Batavia it was verybad, and it might be some days before we should get there, or we couldnot tell when, should the expedition not have succeeded. It wastherefore necessary to get water without delay, and as a river wasmarked on the chart near to where we lay, we agreed the next morning togo up, and, should we see no fort, to run in and obtain water and anyfresh provisions we might require. Accordingly we weighed by sunrise,and, standing in, ran along the coast till we arrived off the mouth ofthe river we hoped to find. Some native houses were seen, but nofortifications and no buildings of an European character. We
thereforethought that we should be perfectly safe in going ashore. On droppingour anchor, several canoes came off laden with turtles, ducks, fowls,cockatoos, monkeys, and other small animals and birds; besides sweetpotatoes, yams, and other vegetables, grown by the natives for thesupply of the ships passing along the coast. They found plenty ofcustomers among our men, and the ship was soon turned into a perfectmenagerie. We without difficulty made the people in the canoesunderstand that we wanted to replenish our water-casks, and weunderstood them to say that they would gladly help us. Two boats weretherefore lowered and filled with casks; Stubbs took charge of one ofthem, and I went in the other, accompanied by little Jack Nobs,intending to exchange a few articles which I took with me suitable tothe taste of the natives for some of the productions of their country.As we pulled up the river we saw the low shores on either side linedwith houses built on high piles, by which they were raised aconsiderable distance above the ground, some, I should think, fullytwenty feet. The only means of entering them was by a ladder, which wefound it was the custom of the inhabitants to lift up at night toprevent the intrusion of strangers, but more especially, I should think,of wild beasts. The chief object, however, of their being built in thisway is to raise them above the miasma of the marshy ground, which oftenrises only two or three feet. They were all on one floor, but hadnumerous partitions or rooms. The roofs, which were covered with palmleaves, projected some distance beyond the walls, so as to form a widebalcony all round. The ground beneath was also in many instances railedin, and thus served for the habitation of ducks, poultry, and cattle.
At the landing-place some way up a number of natives were collected, whoreceived us in a very friendly way. We saw no Dutchmen nor otherEuropeans. As we could not make ourselves understood by the natives, wewere unable to ascertain what had occurred at the other end of theisland. The men in the canoes had for clothing only a cloth round theirwaists, but the people who now received us were habited in a much morecomplete fashion. They wore the _sarong_, a piece of coloured clothabout eight feet long and four wide, part of which was thrown over theshoulder like a Highlander's plaid, the rest bound round the waistserving as a kilt. They all had on drawers secured by a sash, andseveral wore a short frock coat with buttons in front, called a _baju_.All had daggers, and several, who were evidently people of someconsequence, had two in copper or silver sheaths. The latter had theirteeth blackened, which was evidently looked on as a mark of gentility.They also wore turbans, while the lower orders only had little caps ontheir heads. The watering-place was some little way up the river, andwhile the mates proceeded there with the boats, I landed at the villageor town. I had not proceeded far when I was given to understand that achief or some person of consequence wished to see me, for the purpose, Isupposed, of trading. His habitation was pointed out to me on thesummit of some high ground at a distance from the river. It appeared tobe far larger than the houses of the village. Without hesitation I setoff, followed by Jack, and accompanied by several of my firstacquaintance, towards it. I now more than ever regretted having lostO'Carroll, for understanding as he did the languages of the people ofthe Archipelago, he would greatly have facilitated our proceedings.
The house or palace of the great man was surrounded, as are all theisland habitations of every degree which I saw in Java, with gardens.We entered on the north side into a large square court, on either sideof which were rows of Indian fig-trees, with two large fig-trees nearlyin the centre. Passing through this we found ourselves in a smallercourt, surrounded by pillars, and covered in by a light roof. Here mostof my companions remained, but I was conducted up a flight of steps to ahandsome terrace in front of a building of considerable size, in thecentre of which was a spacious hall, the roof richly painted with redand gold. This hall of audience was on the top of the hill; steps fromit led down to other houses which composed the dwelling of the chief andhis family.
As I looked down from the terrace, I could see the tops of the houses ofthe poorer class of people, which surrounded the palace of the chief.They were all in the midst of gardens, and had walls round them. Ifound, indeed, that I was in the centre of a town, or large village,though in coming along I had scarcely seen any habitations, socompletely shut in were they by trees and shrubs. I had thus an exampleof the fertility of Java, and of the industry of its inhabitants. Withregard to the habitations of the barbarians whose lands I visited, Imust observe that, though there were exceptions to the rule, they weregenerally far superior in respect to the wants of the occupants than arethe dwellings of a large number of the poorer classes in Scotland, andespecially in Ireland, and in some districts even in England. They arein good condition, clean, sufficiently furnished, and well ventilated.Granted that the materials of which they are built are cheap, that fromthe fertility of the land a man by labouring three days in the week cansupply all his wants for the remaining four, and has time to repair hishouse and furniture, and that he has no rates and taxes to pay, still Icannot help believing that there is something wrong somewhere, that Godnever intended it to be so, and that it is a matter it behoves us tolook to more than we have done. Though distance seemed to increase mylove for Old England, it did not blind me to her faults, and I oftenblushed when I found myself among heathen savages, and saw thesuperiority of some of their ways to ours. These or similar thoughtsoccupied me while I stood on the terrace gazing on the fine prospectaround, and waiting for the appearance of the chief.
After some time the chief appeared at the entrance of the hall ofaudience, with a gay coloured umbrella borne over his head, a slavecarrying the indispensable betel-box by his side, a handsome turban onhis head, and his sash stuck full of jewel-hilted daggers with goldenscabbards, while all his attendants stood round with their bodies bentforward and their eyes cast to the ground, as a sign of reverence. Ithus knew that I was in the presence of a very important person. I wasrather puzzled to discover who he took me for, that he treated me withso much state. How we were to understand each other, and I was toascertain the truth, I could not tell. I think I mentioned that Ilearned a little Dutch, which I had practised occasionally with PeterKlopps, my old cousin's butler.
I tried the chief with some complimentary phrases in that language, buthe shook his head; I then tried him with French. He shook his headstill more vehemently, and, from the signs he made, I thought that hewas annoyed that I had not brought an interpreter with me. After atime, however, finding that he could get nothing out of me, he saidsomething to one of his attendants, who, raising his hands with hispalms closed till his thumbs touched his nose in rather a curiousfashion, uttered a few words in reply, and then hurried off by the way Ihad come. I was after this conducted into the hall, where on a raisedplatform the chief took his seat, making signs to me to sit near him,his attendants having done the same. Slaves then brought in some basinsof water, in one of which the chief washed his hands, I following hisexample. Trays were then brought in, with meat and rice and fish, andcertain vegetables cut up into small fragments. There were no knives,or forks, or spoons. The chief set an example, which I was obliged tofollow, of dipping his fingers into the mess before him, and, as itwere, clawing up a mouthful and transferring it to his mouth. Had hishands not first been washed, I certainly should not have liked theproceeding, but as I was by this time very hungry, and the dishes werepleasant tasted and well cooked, I did ample justice to the repast.
The chief and his attendants having eaten as much as they well could, myyoung attendant Jack, who sat somewhat behind me, having done the same,water was again brought in, that everybody might wash their hands.
I heard Jack Nobs in a low tone give rough colloquial expressions of hissatisfaction.
"They don't seem much given to talking, though," he added to himself."I wonder whether it is that they think we don't understand their lingo,or that they don't understand ours; I'll just try them, though."
Whereon in a half whisper he addressed the person sitting next to him,who bowed and salaamed very poli
tely in return, but made no reply.
"What I axes you, mounseer, is, whether you feels comfortable after yourdinner," continued Jack, in a loud whisper. "And, I say, will you tellus who the gentleman in the fine clothes is, for I can't make out nohow?Does he know that my master here is a great merchant, and that if hewishes to do a bit of trade, he is the man to do it with him?"
The same dumb show on the part of the Javanese went on as before.Jack's attempt at opening up a conversation was put a stop to by thereturn of the servant with dishes containing a variety of vegetables andfruits, which were as welcome, probably, to him as to me. One dishcontained a sweet potato cooked. It must have weighed from twelve tofifteen pounds. I have heard of one weighing thirty pounds. Thenatives appeared very fond of it. We had peas and artichokes and a dishof sago, the mode of obtaining which I afterwards saw, and will describepresently. I heard Jack cry out when he saw one of the dishes of fruit.It was, I found, the _durian_, a fruit of which the natives are veryfond, and which I got to like, though its peculiarly offensive odour atfirst gave me a dislike to it. It is nearly of the size of a man'shead, and is of a spherical form. It consists of five cells, eachcontaining from one to four large seeds enveloped in a rich white pulp,itself covered with a thin pellicle, which prevents the seed fromadhering to it. This pulp is the edible portion of the fruit. However,a dish of _mangostine_ was more to my taste. It is one of the mostexquisite of Indian fruits. It is mildly acid, and has an extremedelicacy of flavour without being luscious or cloying. In externalappearance it resembles a ripe pomegranate, but is smaller and morecompletely globular. A rather tough rind, brown without, and of a deepcrimson within, encloses three or four black seeds surrounded by a soft,semi-transparent, snow-white pulp, having occasionally a very slightcrimson plush. The pulp is eaten. We had also the well-knownJack-fruit, a great favourite with the natives; and the _champadak_, amuch smaller fruit, of more slender form and more oblong shape. It hasa slightly farinaceous consistency, and has a very delicate and sweetflavour. I remember several other fruits; indeed, the chief seemedanxious to show to me, a stranger, the various productions of hiscountry. There were mangoes, shaddocks, and pine-apples in profusion,and several other small fruits, some too luscious for my palate, butothers having an agreeable sub-acid taste.
We sat and sat on, waiting for the return of the messenger. I observedthat whereas a calabash of water stood near the guests, from which theydrank sparingly, a jug was placed close to the chief, and that as hecontinued to sip from it his eyes began to roll and his head to turnfrom side to side in a curious manner. Suddenly, as if seized with agenerous impulse, or rather having overcome a selfish one, he passed thejug with a sigh over to me, and made signs that if I was so inclined Iwas to drink from it. I did so without hesitation, but my breath wasalmost taken away. It was the strongest arrack. I could not ascertainhow the chief, who was a Mohammedan, could allow himself to do what isso contrary to the law of the prophet. I observed that his attendantslooked away when he drank, as they did when I put the cup to my lips; soI conclude that they knew well enough that it was not quite the rightthing to do. All the inhabitants of Java are nominally Mohammedans,but, in the interior especially, a number of gross and idolatrouspractices are mixed up with the performance of its ceremonies, while theupper orders especially are very lax in their principles. Most of them,in spite of the law of their prophet prohibiting the use of wine andspirits, drink them whenever they can be procured. The rich have asmany wives as they can support, but the poor are obliged to contentthemselves with one. I should say that my host, when I returned him thejar of arrack, deprived of very little of its contents, gave a grunt ofsatisfaction, from which I inferred that his supply had run short, andthat he was thankful that I had not taken more. I kept anxiouslywaiting all the time for the arrival of an interpreter, for whom I wasconvinced the chief had sent. After we lost Captain O'Carroll wereturned to our original intention of procuring one at Batavia. Thismust account for my being at present without one. I had come on shorein the hope that I might make myself sufficiently understood to carry ona trade by means of signs, as I knew was often done. As, however, mynew friends would not make the attempt to talk by signs or in any otherway, I had to wait patiently till somebody should arrive to help us outof our dilemma.