Read The River at the Center of the World: A Journey Up the Yangtze Page 44


  Bergman, Ingrid, 95

  Bicycle accident, 118–20

  Bilateral cooperation, 371

  Bilharzia, 195n

  Biological experiments, 135–7

  Bird, Isabella, 264, 290, 411

  Black tea, 180

  Blakiston, Thomas, 264, 265

  Blue River, 101

  Bombings, 208, 244

  Bon religion, 329

  Bonavia, Judy, 409

  ‘Boneless pigs’, 303, 334, 376

  Booz, Patrick, 342

  Borodin, Mikhail, 215

  Botanical studies, 340–41

  Botanical studies, 337–8

  Boxer Uprising, 269

  Brick tea road, 397, 398

  Bridges, 122–4, 202–3, 378–9, 404–5

  Britain's Last Imperial Adventure, 376

  Britannia (royal yacht), 91

  British mercantilism, 57–61, 70–71, 173–9

  Brothels, 72–3

  Brown, N. S., 64, 89

  Brunei, 53–4

  Buck, John, 115

  Buck, Pearl S., 115–16

  Buddhists, 377

  Bunds, 36n, 83–6, 155, 204–5

  Burma Road, 313, 330

  Bus service, 306–9

  Butterfield & Swire, 284, 63, 89

  Cadres Regiment, 313

  Camellia plants, 173–4. See alsoTea industry

  Camping, 368–70

  Canadian visitors, 249–50, 250n

  Canals, 95, 100, 101, 113–14, 157

  Canton, 72, 87, 174, 197, 216, 217, 318

  Castro, Fidel, 141

  Cathay Hotel, 84

  Caves, 25, 291–2, 314, 315

  Celestial Empire, 264

  Central China Anti-Epidemic Water Supply Unit, 138

  Central China Flood of 1931, 150, 153–4, 155–6

  Central Intelligence Agency (CIA), 31

  Ch‘ang Chiang Pilot, 383–5, 410

  Ch'ang Jiang Light Ship, 35

  Chala, 376

  Chain gangs, 396–7, 400

  Chang Jiang Kou Bei Jiao, 41

  Chang Jiang Kou Lanby, 33, 35

  Chang Jiang! Chang Jiang! (Dai Qing), 239, 411

  Changchup Dolma, 383–5

  Changsha, 217, 222

  Chatwin, Bruce, 338, 338–9, 341, 342

  Chaulmoogra oil, 333

  Chefoo Convention, 266, 268

  Cheng Ho, 142

  Chengdu, 295, 297, 323, 353, 370, 373, 375, 381, 394

  Chenqian, 41

  Chiang Kai-shek, 130, 139, 156, 172, 197, 215, 244n, 281, 287

  Chiang Mai, 327

  Chin-huai stream, 139–40

  China Daily, 164

  China Geographic Research Institute, 351

  China Merchants Steam Navigation Company, 284

  China Navigation Company (CN Co.), 63, 284, 285, 412

  China Proper, 304, 375

  China Quarterly, The, 85n

  China Sea Pilot, 36, 410

  China Yangtze River Scientific Observation Drifting Expedition, 358

  Chinese Pale, 304, 307

  Chittagong, 94

  Chola-shan mountains, 386

  Chongming Dao, 43, 46

  Chongqing, 19, 26, 130, 226, 234, 242–3, 266–9, 280–82, 286–7, 336, 366

  Chortens, 380, 385

  Chou En-lai, 215

  Ciochon, Russell, 293

  Cleese, John, 342

  Clinton, Bill, 31

  Clipper ships, 175, 205

  Cloud Mountain, 4–5,264, 359, 360–62, 363, 364, 366, 367

  Coates, Austin, 9

  Cockchafer, HMS, 285

  Cold War, 109, 203

  Come-to-Me Rock, 271

  Communications satellite, 309–10

  Communist Party Central Committee, 188

  Communist takeover (1949), 87, 106

  Concord, HMS, 111

  Confucianists, 224

  Cormorants, 283

  Cornwallis, HMS, 142, 177

  Creation myths, 362

  Crush-tear-curl (CTC) process, 181

  Cultural Revolution, 86, 141, 189, 190–91, 201, 231, 232, 255, 257, 329, 339–40, 381, 383, 390, 391

  Currency exchange scam, 247–8

  Cuttlefish boats, 42

  Da Fu, 325

  Dadu River, 378

  Dai Qing, 238–40, 241, 411

  Dalai Lama, 279, 322, 325, 377, 389, 398, 401

  Dali, 327, 333

  Dalian, 28

  Dam building, 223–9, 235, 253–7, 261–2, 316–20

  Dam Qu stream, 322, 350–52, 404

  Daoguang, Emperor, 138, 143

  Datong, 124, 159

  David, Père, 337, 380

  Daxue Mountains, 370

  Daya Bay, 250

  Dead bodies, 90–91, 193–4, 321–2

  Dêgê, 355, 373, 374, 377, 381, 387–91

  Democratic Youth Party, 245

  Deng Xiaoping, 236, 241, 297

  Dharmsala, India, 401

  Dikes, 157–9

  Din-Din Café, 331

  Dismissal of Hai Rui from Office, The, 190

  Distilleries, 297–8

  Dolphins, 101–4, 246

  Domand Gunpa lamasery, 385

  Dong Jiao, 41

  Dong Zhi, 276

  Dongting Lake, 157

  Dove tree, 337, 361

  Dragon Hill Cave, 291–3

  Dragon Horse Stream, 275

  Dragon's Descendant (boat), 353

  Drepung Monastery, 398

  Du, Mrs, 276–8

  Earthquakes, 244

  East China Sea, 2, 20, 33, 35, 38, 150, 238, 343, 391

  East India Company, 70–71, 175–6

  East Is Red Number One, The (ship), 198–9

  Eder Dam, 244

  Eighth Battalion of the Wuchang Engineers, 209

  Electrical-power generators, 225, 227, 228, 235–6, 253

  Elizabeth II, Queen, 91, 198

  Elliot, Charles, 143

  Ena, Ms, 322

  Endangered Species Act, 241

  Environmentalism, 239, 241, 246, 253

  Epic Undertaking, An, 219, 260

  Erhai Lake, 364, 365

  Ertan Dam, 316–18

  Estuary, 37–43

  Expeditions, 352–8

  Exports, 214

  Expressways, 86, 216

  Extraterritoriality, 106

  Face, loss of, 311

  Fairy Flats, 49n

  Fall of Shanghai, The (Barber), 412

  Ferryboats, 116, 124, 392

  First Opium War, 29, 57, 143

  Fishermen, 101–3

  Five Cereals Liquid, 297

  Flatwater, 344

  Flood control, 227, 237, 364

  Flood Relief Commission, 156, 158

  Floods, 149–58, 163–5, 192, 222–3

  Flower boats, 139–40

  Flying Tigers, 281, 339

  Foochow, 72, 96

  Forbidden City, 209

  Foreign debt, 251

  Fossils, 291–3

  Franchises, 212–13

  Franklin Research and Development Corporation, 252

  Freedom of Information Act, 31–2

  Freeways, 86, 216

  Frozen yogurt, 211

  Fu-hsi, Emperor, 363

  Fuling, 234

  Fushan, 94

  Gambling, 73

  Gang of Four, 191n, 232

  Garway's Coffee House, 173, 174

  Gas stations, 382–3

  Ge Guo-hong, 81–3

  Gelandandong Glacier, 404, 405

  Gelandandong, Mount, 343, 351, 352, 367, 374, 405

  Geology, 367

  Gezhouba Dam, 254–7

  Gill, William, 264

  Glen Canyon Dam, 236

  Glimpses of the Yangtze Gorges (Plant), 411

  Gold mines, 385–6

  Golden Road, 325

  Golmud, 373, 375, 404

  Good Earth, The (Buck), 115, 214, 294

  Gotô, Baron, 12
9, 131

  Goullart, Peter, 334–5

  Grand Canal, 95, 100, 101, 113–14

  Grand Coulee Dam, 236

  Granville, Lord, 50, 51

  Great Anniversary Swim of 1995, 202

  Great Bend at Shigu Town, 20, 25, 264

  Great Leap Forward, 102, 125, 187–8, 200, 232, 324

  Great Wall of China, 43, 262

  Green tea, 181–2

  Grover, David, 410

  Guangxi province, 327

  Guangzhuguo Stream, 351–2, 352

  Guanxi (connections), 372, 374, 388

  Guichi, 160–62

  Guidebooks, 128–9

  Guinness Book of Records, The, 258

  Guiyang, 239

  Gulags, 245

  Gulf of Tonkin, 3, 366

  Guling, 173, 186–8

  Gunboat diplomacy, 284–6

  Gyermorong, 376

  Hai Rui, 189–90

  Hainan Island, 54

  Haiphong, Vietnam, 214

  Han Chinese, 16, 303, 307, 322, 329, 376, 400

  Han Shui River, 214, 217, 237

  Handbook for the Guidance of Shipmasters on the Ichang-Chungking Section of the Yangtze River, A (Plant), 270–72

  Hangzhou Bay, 40, 47, 130

  Hankou, 204–9, 213–14

  Hankou Bund, 155, 204

  Han Shui River, 203

  Hanson, J. M., 133–4

  Hanyang, 203

  Harbin, 136, 221

  Hazelwood, 62–5, 67, 69, 78, 89

  Headwaters, 349–53, 404–6

  Hegemony, 54

  Henan province, 243

  Heng Duan Shan, 360, 361

  Heng Sha, 41

  Henry, Augustine, 337

  Herbal medicine, 339–42

  Hersey, John, 230–31, 253, 255, 290, 408

  Himalayas, 150, 295, 361, 367

  Hippie Trail, 327

  History of Far Eastern Art (Lee), 9

  Ho Shi-xiu, 338–42

  Hobhouse, Henry, 412

  Homosexuality, 73–4, 146

  Hong Kong, 70, 77, 81, 82, 87, 143–4, 177, 216–17, 236, 252, 274, 309, 406

  Hongkong & Shanghai Bank, 83

  Hoover Dam, 236

  Horizon Splitting Range, 359, 361

  Hsia dynasty, 263

  Hsia, Joseph, 76

  Huang Ti, 362–3

  Huangla Stone, 244

  Huanglingmiao, 232

  Huc, Abbé, 380

  Humboldt, Alexander von, 265

  Hunan province, 197, 198

  Hydraulics, 223–4

  Hydroelectric power systems, 225, 227, 228, 235–6, 253

  Imperial Japanese Government Railways, 129

  Imperial Maritime Customs Service, 154, 269–70, 276, 337

  Imports, 211–13

  Indian tea, 178

  Inspection Cruiser Number Two, 36, 37, 41

  International Relief Committee, 133

  Investments, 250–51

  Irkutsk, 381

  Iron Duke, HMS, 50

  Irrigation systems, 225

  Isherwood, Christopher, 73, 215

  Itaipu Dam, 235

  Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, 326–7, 337, 339

  Japanese occupation, 130–39

  Jardine, Matheson & Co., 57–60, 63, 176, 212, 284

  Jari Hill, 352

  Java Man, 293

  Jialing River, 153, 280

  Jiang Han, 56, 140

  Jiang Qing, 190

  Jiang Zemin, 168, 245

  Jianggudiru Glacier, 351

  Jiangsu province, 39, 197

  Jiangxi province, 197

  Jiangyin, 131, 95–7

  Jiaopingdu, 313, 379

  Jing Hui temple, 142, 143

  Jinjiang Flood Diversion Region, 222, 237

  Jinling Hotel, 125

  Jinsha Jiang, 295, 298, 350, 352, 353, 358

  Jiuhua Mountain, 160

  Jiujiang, 145, 152, 162, 165, 166–71, 192, 245

  Jiujiang Hotel, 167–71

  Jiujiang Tea Company, 180

  Joint Operations Graphics (JOG) sheets, 30–31, 409

  Journey to a War (Isherwood), 215

  Judy's Place, 89

  Junks and Sampans of the Yangtze, The (Worcester), 409–10

  Kai Tak Airport, 33, 216

  Kaixian county, 245

  Kallen, Christine, 412

  Kangding, 373, 377, 379–81, 383

  Kanxi, Emperor, 15

  Karaoke, 78, 79, 94, 192

  Kashgar, 216

  Kathmandu, 327

  Kham region, 376–7

  Khampas, 376

  Kim Il Sung, 141, 297

  King of Muli, 334

  Kinsha, HMS, 269

  Kipling, Rudyard, 393

  Koreans, 160–61

  Kou-an Reach, 107

  Kung, Prince, 51

  Kunlun (boat), 148

  Kunming, 311, 330

  Kuomintang (KMT), 106, 215, 314, 315

  Kyzyl, 381

  Labour camps, 396–7

  Lamas, 412

  Lamas, Princes and Brigands (Rock & Aris), 412

  Lamaseries, 380, 381, 383, 384–5, 391, 400

  Lancelot Dent and Company, 176

  Landslips, 244, 274

  Lao Cai, 366

  Large Dams in China, 256

  Lee, J. S., 229

  Lee, Sherman, 9, 14

  Leechuan (ship), 267

  Lei Jiansheng, 357

  Leibo, 304

  Leiwujie, 394

  Lhasa, 327, 331, 373–4, 375, 376, 377, 381, 383, 386, 394, 397–8, 400, 403

  Li Bai, 172, 325, 375

  Li Peng, 233, 234, 235, 237, 240–42, 253, 297

  Li Qingjian, 357

  Li Siguang, 229

  Liaoning province, 89

  Lijiang, 327–32, 336–7, 338, 339–40, 346

  Lily (Li Xiaodi), 26–9 and passim

  Lin Huainto, 239

  Liquor industry, 297–8

  Lishe Jiang, 365

  Lithang, 376

  Little Orphan Channel, 162–3

  Little, Archibald, 264, 265–6, 267–8345, 411

  Liu Rong Bo, 259–60

  Locks, ship, 255–6

  Logan, Pam, 381, 389

  Logging industry, 316

  Long March, 306, 313–16, 379

  Longgupo Cave, 291–2

  Lord Amherst (ship), 71

  Lu, Captain, 299–300

  Luding Bridge, 378–9

  Luoyang Expedition for Sailing and Exploring the Yangtze, 358

  Lushan, 172–4, 181–92

  Lushan Misty Clouds Green Tea, 170, 182, 185

  Lushan Tea Research Institute, 182–6

  Lynn, Madeleine, 409

  Ma Lu, 389

  Ma Shumou, 114n

  Macartney, Lord, 29, 50, 101

  Macclesfield Bank, 53

  Mackay, Ivor, 134

  McKenna, Richard, 286, 410

  McWhirter, Norris, 258

  Manchuria, 28, 89, 130, 136, 177

  Manchus, 50–51, 58, 177, 206–11, 265, 277, 376, 377

  Mandarin, 26

  Mao Zedong, 102, 140–41, 148, 172, 187–91, 195–202, 215, 217–18, 230, 231–2, 255, 306, 313–15, 324, 337, 349

  Maps, 29–31, 270–72, 409

  Marco Polo Bridge incident, 130

  Margery, Augustus, 264

  Massacre Museum, 133–5, 138–9

  Masseuses, 80

  Masuda Rokusuke, 132

  Masuda Tomosada, 136, 138

  Matheson, Donald, 176, 177n

  Matsui Iwane, 131

  Medicine, Chinese, 339–42

  Mei-ling, 172

  Meirentuo, 232

  Mekong River, 350, 364, 373, 393–4

  Meng Jiao, 325

  Merrill Lynch, 251, 253

  Meteor-Studded Rapid, 358

  Metropolitan Museum of Art, 14

  Miao, Mr, 374–5, 382, 392, 395–6, 397, 400

  Middle Kingdom, 2,
5, 12, 52, 191, 327, 366

  Middle Sand Light, 38

  Mills, W. P., 134

  Min River, 153, 295, 350, 358

  Ming dynasty, 15, 131, 189–90, 350

  Minya Konka peak, 335

  Miocene Orogeny, 4

  Miracle Canal, 158

  Mirror Mountain, 162

  Misty Foothills Mountains, 365

  Mohne Dam, 244

  Money-changing scam, 247–8

  Monsoons, 151–3

  Morgan Stanley, 251, 253

  Moso people, 302–3, 334–5, 376

  Moulmein, 393

  Mukden Railway, 206

  Muli, 303

  Murdoch, Rupert, 310n

  Murray, John, 128

  Musicians, 330

  Myself a Mandarin (Coates), 9n

  Nagqu, 397, 398

  Nakhi people, 303, 328–31, 334, 336, 337, 365

  Nanjin Pass, 232

  Nanjing, 19, 106, 114, 115–46, 154, 202, 211,216, 366

  Nanjing Treaty Museum, 142–5

  Nanking Incident of 1927, 121, 142

  Nanking, Rape of, 131–5

  Nation, The, 285

  National Geographic, 378

  National Geographic Society, 334, 351

  National People's Congress, 240, 251

  National Security Council (NSC), 31

  Nationalists, 314, 315

  Nautical charts, 29–30, 409

  Navy, Chinese, 53–5

  Needham, Joseph, 410

  New Chinese Army, 207

  New Rapid, 273, 279

  New York City Comptroller's Investment Responsibility Office, 252

  New York World, 285

  Ningbo, 40, 47, 72

  Ningjing Range, 394

  North-China Daily News, 210

  Observer, 408

  Odyssey Guide to Sichuan, 409

  On Leaving Bai Di Cheng (Walker), 411

  Oolong tea, 181

  Opium divans, 72–3

  Opium trade, 176–9, 213

  Opium Wars, 29, 57, 76, 143, 177, 204

  Oriental Pearl Television Tower, 66–9, 82, 86

  Otters, 283

  Pagodas, 160–62

  Palaeontological discoveries, 291–4

  Palin, Michael, 342

  Palmerston, Lord, 57, 143

  Panay (gunboat), 285

  Panchen Lama, 401

  P‘an-ku, 362

  Panzhihua, 311, 315, 322, 324, 366

  Paracel Islands, 53

  Parasites, 195

  Peach Blossom Hotel, 248–50

  Pearl River, 3, 87, 88, 197, 217

  Pearl Rocks, 271, 272

  Peking. See Beijing

  Peking Man, 293, 294

  Peng Dehuai, 188–92

  People's Daily, 189–90

  People's Liberation Army (PLA), 107, 113, 188, 190

  People's Park, 75

  People's Square, 75, 86

  People's Theatre, 173, 186–7, 188

  Pepper wood, 389, 390

  Perucia Dam, 244

  Pickering, J.V., 134

  Pictorial History of China Navigation Company Limited, 412

  Pidgin English, 74–5

  Pingshan, 136, 300, 304

  Pioneer (ship), 268–9

  Plagues, 138

  Plant Memorial, 274–6

  Plant, Cornell, 265, 267, 268–74, 337, 345, 411

  Poetry, 217–18

  Policemen, 72, 79, 119–20, 388–9, 393–5