CHAPTER TEN.
THE LOCATION ON THE RIVER OF BABOONS.
The Scotch immigrants at last found themselves in the wildmountain-regions of the interior, after a weary but deeply interestingmarch of nearly two hundred miles.
They had now arrived at the mouth of the Baboons or Baviaans river, oneof the affluents of the Great Fish River, and had already seen many ofthe wild inhabitants of its rugged glen.
Their particular location was a beautiful well-watered region among themountains which had been forfeited by some of the frontier boers at thetime of their insurrection against the English Government some yearsbefore. They had now crossed the Great Fish River, and, though stillwithin the old boundary of the colony, were upon its utmost easternverge. The country beyond, as we are told by Pringle, in his graphicaccount of the expedition, [see Note 1] "for a distance of seventymiles, to the new frontier at the Chumi and Keisi rivers, had been, thepreceding year, forcibly depeopled of its native inhabitants, the Kafirsand Ghonaquas, and now lay waste and void, `a howling wilderness,'occupied only by wild beasts, and haunted occasionally by wanderingbanditti of the Bushman race (Bosjesmen), who were represented as beingeven more wild and savage than the beasts of prey with whom they sharedthe dominion of the desert."
Just before their arrival at this point, the old waggons, with thedrivers who had accompanied them from Algoa Bay, were exchanged forfresh teams and men, and here Ruyter, Jemalee, and Booby left them, toproceed over a spur of one of the mountain ranges to Jan Smit's farm onthe karroo. But Hans Marais, having taken a fancy to some of the Scotchmen, determined to proceed with them until he had seen them fairlyestablished in their new homes. Of course Charlie Considine accompaniedHans.
In a wild spot among the mountains they were hospitably received at thesolitary abode of a field-cornet named Opperman, who said that he hadorders to assist them with an escort of armed boers over the remainingportion of their journey, and to place them in safety on their allottedground. This remaining portion, he told them, was up the Baviaans Riverglen, and, although little more than twenty-five miles, would prove tobe harder than any part of the journey they had yet encountered.
Remembering some of the breakneck gorges of the Zuurberg, Jerry Goldboysaid that he didn't believe it possible for any route to be worse thanthat over which they had already passed, to which Sandy Black repliedwith a "humph!" and an opinion that "the field-cornet o' the distric'was likely to know what he was speakin' aboot." But Jerry never hadbeen, and of course never could be, convinced by reason. "Nothing," hecandidly admitted, "but hard facts had the least weight with him."
"'Ee've got hard fac's noo, Jerry," said Sandy, about noon of thefollowing day, as he threw down the axe with which he had been hewingthe jungle, and pulled off his hat, from the crown of which he took ared cotton handkerchief wherewith to wipe his thickly-beaded brow.
Jerry could not deny the truth of this, for he also had been engagedsince early morning with a South African axe nearly as large as himself,in assisting to out a passage up the glen.
Not only was there no road up this mountain gorge, but in some parts itwas scarcely possible to make one, so rugged was the ground, so densethe jungle. But the preliminary difficulties were as nothing comparedto those which met them further up; yet it was observable that the Dutchwaggoners faced them with the quiet resolution of men accustomed to theovercoming of obstacles.
"You'd go up a precipice, Hans, I do believe, if there was no way roundit," said Considine, as he gazed in admiring wonder at his tall frienddriving his oxen up an acclivity that threatened destruction to waggon,beasts, and men.
"At ony rate he'd try," remarked Sandy Black, with one of his gravesmiles.
Hans was too busy to heed these remarks, if he heard them, for the oxen,being restive, claimed his undivided attention, and the wielding of thetwenty-foot whip taxed both his arms, muscular though they were.
When the long line of emigrants had slowly defiled through the _poort_,or narrow gorge, of the mountains from which Baviaans River issues intothe more open valley where it joins the Great Fish River, they camesuddenly upon a very singular scene, and a still more singular man. Inthe middle of the poort they found a small farm, where tremendousprecipices of naked rock towered all round, so as to leave barelysufficient space on the bank of the river for the houses andcattle-folds, with a well-stocked garden and orchard. There was also asmall plot of corn-land on the margin of the stream.
"'Tis a little paradise!" exclaimed Kenneth McTavish, as he andConsidine joined a knot of men on a knoll, whence they had a good viewof the little farm.
"It's an unco' rocky paradise," observed Sandy Black, "an' the angelicappendages o' wings wadna be unsuitable to its inhabitants, for it seemseasier to flee oot o't ower the precipices than to scramble intil't owerthe rocks an' rooten trees. I wonder wha it belangs to."
Hans Marais, who came up at the moment, explained that it belonged to aDutch boer named Prinsolo, who had been a leader some years before in arebellion, but had been pardoned and allowed to retain his lands."You've sometimes said you thought me a big fellow, Considine," remarkedHans, "and I can't gainsay you, but you shall see a much bigger fellowif Prinsolo is at home, for he's a giant even among Cape Dutchmen. Wecall him Groot Willem (Big William), for he is burly and broad as wellas tall--perhaps he is taking his noon nap," added Hans, moving forward."He seldom lets even a single waggon come so near without--ah! Ithought so."
As he spoke a peculiarly deep bass yawn was heard inside the principalhouse of the farm to which the party now drew near. Next moment a heavythump sounded, as if on the floor, and immediately after there issuedfrom the open door a veritable giant in his shirt-sleeves. Groot Willemwas rough, shaggy, and rugged, as a giant ought to be. He was alsosluggish in his motions, good-humoured, and beaming, as many of theDutch giants are. Appropriately enough, on beholding the settlers, heuttered a deep bass halloo, which was echoed solemnly by the mightycliffs at his back. It was neither a shout of alarm nor surprise, forhe had long been aware that this visit was pending, but a hasty summonsto his household to turn out and witness the stirring and unwontedsight.
It might have been supposed that a giant, whose kindred had beendeprived of their lands by the British Government, and some of whom hadbeen executed for high treason, would have regarded the Britishimmigrants with no favourable eye, but Groot Willem appeared to have alarge heart in his huge body, for he received the advance-guard of theparty with genuine hospitality. Perhaps he was of an unusuallyforgiving spirit; or it may be that his innate sense of justice led himto recognise the demerit of himself and his kindred; or perchance he wastouched by the leniency extended to himself; but, whatever the cause, heshook the newcomers heartily by the hand, said he regarded them as nextdoor-neighbours, started the echoes of the precipices--which he styledKrantzes--and horrified the nearest baboons with shouts of bass laughterat every word from himself or others which bore the remotest semblanceto a joke, and insisted on as many of the strangers as could be got intohis house, drinking to their better acquaintance in home-made brandy.The same deadly beverage was liberally distributed to the men outside,and Groot Willem wound up his hospitalities by loading the party withvegetables, pomegranates, lemons, and other fruits from his garden as hesent them on their way rejoicing. Soon afterwards he followed them, toaid in forcing a passage up the valley.
In return, as a slight acknowledgment of gratitude, Hans supplied thegiant with a little powder and lead, and Mr Pringle gave his family afew Dutch tracts and hymn-books.
"Wonders'll niver cease in this land!" said Sandy Black to Jerry Goldboyas they left the farm.
"That's true, Sandy; it's a houtrageous country."
"To think," continued the Scot, "that we should foregather wi' Goliathamang the heeland hills o' Afriky; an' him fond o' his dram tae--Hech,man! look there--at the puggies."
He pointed as he spoke to a part of the precipice where a group ofbaboons were collected, gazing indignantly and cha
ttering furiously atthe intruders on their domain.
The ursine baboon is not naturally pugnacious, but neither is he timidor destitute of the means of defence. On the contrary, he is armed withcanine teeth nearly an inch long, and when driven to extremities willdefend himself against the fiercest wolf-hound. He usually grapples hisenemy by the throat with his fore and hind paws--takes a firm bite withhis formidable tusks, and tears and tugs till he sometimes pulls awaythe mouthful. Many a stout baboon has in this manner killed severaldogs before being overpowered. It is said that even the leopard issometimes attacked and worried by baboons, but it is only collectivelyand in large bands that they can oppose this powerful enemy, and baboonsare never the aggressors. It is only in defence of their young thatthey will assail him.
The strong attachment of these creatures to their young is a fine traitin their character. This quality has been shown on many occasions,especially when the creatures have been engaged in orchard-robbing,--forthey are excessively fond of fruit and remarkably destitute ofconscience. On such occasions, when hunted back to the mountains withdogs, the females, when separated accidentally from their young, havebeen seen to return to search for them through the very midst of theirpursuers, being utterly regardless of their own safety.
The group to which Black now directed attention consisted of severalfemales with a number of young ones. They were all huddled in a cleftof the precipice, looking down in apparent surprise at the strangers.On a neighbouring height sat a big old satyr-like male, who had beenplaced there as a sentinel. Baboons are wise creatures, and invariablyplace sentinels on points of vantage when the females and their youngare feeding on the nutritious bulbs and roots that grow in the valleys.The old gentleman in question had done his duty on the first appearanceof the human intruders. He had given a roar of warning; the forty orfifty baboons that were down near the river had scampered offprecipitately, dashed through the stream, or leaped over it wherenarrow, hobbled awkwardly on all-fours over the little bit of levelground, and clambered with marvellous agility up the cliffs, till theyhad gained the ledge from which they now gazed and chattered, feelingconfident in the safety of their position.
"Did iver 'ee see the like? They're almost human!" said Sandy.
"Just look at that big grandmother with the blue face and the littlebaby on 'er back!" exclaimed Jerry.
"How d'you know she's a grandmother?" asked Considine.
"W'y, because she's much fonder of the baby than its own mother couldbe."
As he spoke, one of the party below them fired, and the echoes sprang inconflict from the surrounding heights, as a bullet whizzed over theirheads and hit the rocks, sending a shower of harmless chips and dustamong the baboons.
With a shriek of consternation they scattered and fled up the heights atracing speed.
A burst of laughter from the settlers,--all the more hearty that nodamage had been done,--increased the terror inspired by the shot, andseemed to invest the animals with invisible wings.
"Tally-ho!" shouted Considine in excitement.
"The black ane for ever!" cried Sandy.
"I'll back the grey one with the short tail," said Kenneth McTavish,coming up at the moment, "although she has two little ones clinging toher."
"Ten to one," cried Jerry, bending eagerly forward, "on the blue-nosedgrandmother wi' the baby on her back!"
It did indeed seem as if Jerry's favourite was going to reach the top ofthe crags before any of the other horrified creatures, for she waspowerful as well as large, and her burden was particularly small. Theinfant required no assistance, but clung to its dam with its two littlehands like a limpet, so that she could use her limbs freely. But anunusually long and vigorous bound chanced to loosen the little one'sgrasp. It fell off with a pitiful shriek, and, with an imploring upwardlook on its miserable countenance, clasped its little hands in mutedespair.
Granny or mamma,--we know not which,--with the quick intuition of agreat general, took in the whole position like a flash of light. Sheturned on the ledge she had gained and dropped her tail. Baby seized itand clambered up. Then away she went like a rocket, and before thelittle one had well regained its former position she had topped theridge full two yards ahead of the whole troop!
"Well done!" cried McTavish.
"Huzza!" shouted Jerry.
"Brute!" exclaimed Considine, striking up the muzzle of a gun which waspointed at the grandmother and child by a panting young idiot who rushedup at the moment, "would you commit murder?"
The gun exploded and sent its ball straight to the new moon, which,early though it was, had begun to display the washed-out horns of itsfirst quarter in the sky.
"Confound you!" cried the so-called Brute, who was by no means a coward,throwing down his gun and hitting Considine a heavy blow on the chest.
Charlie "returned" on the forehead and sent the Brute head over heels onthe turf, but he sprang up instantly, and there would certainly havebeen a battle-royal if Groot Willem, who opportunely appeared, had notseized Considine by the arm, while Hans Marais grasped the Brute by theneck, and rendered further action impossible. A moment sufficed to coolthe youths, for the "Brute" was young, and they both shook hands with alaugh and a mutual apology.
Soon after leaving the giant's farm the travellers reached a point wherethe main stream was joined by a subsidiary rivulet. Its correspondingvalley branched off to the right, about eight miles in length,containing fine pasturage and rich alluvial soil. It extended eastwardbehind the back of the Kahaberg, where the settlers observed the skirtsof the magnificent timber forests which cover the southern fronts ofthat range, stretching over the summits of the hills at the head of theglen. To this valley, and the wooded hills which bound it, was giventhe name of Ettrick Forest, while the main valley itself was named GlenLynden.
Not far from this point the apology for a waggon track ended altogether,and thenceforth the settlers found the route difficult and dangerous toa degree far exceeding their previous experiences or their wildestconceptions. Jerry Goldboy had now "facts" enough to overturn all hisunbelief. The axe, crowbar, pick, and sledge-hammer were incessantly atwork. They had literally to _hew_ their path through jungles andgullies, and beds of torrents and rocky acclivities, which formed aseries of obstructions that tested the power of the whole party,--GrootWillem and the allies included,--to the uttermost.
Of course the difficulties varied with the scenery. Here the vale wasnarrow and gorge-like, with just sufficient room for the stream to pass,while precipices of naked rock rose abruptly like rampart walls to aheight of many hundred feet. These in some places seemed actually tooverhang the savage-looking pass, or "poort," through which the waggonshad to struggle in the very bed of the stream. Elsewhere it widened outsufficiently to leave space along the river-bank for fertile meadows,which were picturesquely sprinkled with mimosa trees and evergreenshrubs, and clothed with luxuriant pasturage up to the girths of thehorses. Everywhere the mountains rose around, steep and grand, thelower declivities covered with good pasturage, the cliffs above, offreestone and trap, frowning in wild forms like embattled ramparts whosepicturesque sides were sprinkled with various species of succulentplants and flowering aloes.
For five days did they struggle up this short glen; two of these daysbeing occupied in traversing only three miles of a rugged defile, towhich they gave the name of Eildon Cleugh. But "nothing is denied towell-directed labour." They smashed two waggons, damaged all theothers, half-killed their oxen, skinned all their knuckles,black-and-blued all their shins, and nearly broke all their hearts, tillat length they passed through the last poort of the glen and gained thesummit of an elevated ridge which commanded a magnificent view to theextremity of the vale.
"And now, Mynheer," said the field-cornet in charge of their escort,"there lies your country."
"At last!--thank God," said the leader of the band, looking round ontheir beautiful though savage home with feelings of deep gratitude forthe happy termination of their long and wea
ry travels.
The toil of journeying was now succeeded by the bustle and excitement ofsettling down.
Their new home was a lovely vale of about six or seven miles in length,and varying from one to two in breadth, like a vast basin surrounded onall sides by steep and sterile mountains, which rose in sharp wedge-likeridges, with snow-clad summits that towered to an estimated height offive thousand feet above the level of the sea. The contrast between thewarm peaceful valley and the rugged amphitheatre of mountains was verygreat. The latter, dark and forbidding--yet home-like and gladdening tothe eyes of Scotsmen--suggested toil and trouble, while the former, withits meandering river, verdant meadows, groves of sweet-scentedmimosa-trees, and herds of antelopes, quaggas, and other animalspasturing in undisturbed quietude, filled the mind with visions of peaceand plenty. Perchance God spoke to them in suggestive prophecy, for thecontrast was typical of their future chequered career in these almostunknown wilds of South Africa.
Left by their escort on the following day--as their English brethren hadbeen left in the Zuurveld of Lower Albany--to take root and grow thereor perish, the heads of families assembled, and their leader addressedthem.
"Here, at last," said he, "our weary travels by sea and land have cometo an end. Exactly six months ago, to a day, we left the shores ofbonny Scotland. Since then we have been wanderers, without any otherhome than the crowded cabin at sea and the narrow tent on shore. Now wehave, through God's great goodness and mercy, reached the `PromisedLand' which is to be our future home, our place of rest. We havepitched our tents among the mimosa-trees on the river's margin, and ourkind Dutch friends with the armed escort have left us. We are finallyleft to our own resources; it behoves us therefore, kindred andcomrades, to proceed systematically to examine our domain, and fix ourseveral locations. For this purpose I propose that an armed partyshould sally forth to explore, while the rest shall remain to take careof the women and children, and guard the camp."
Acting on this advice, an exploration party was at once organised, andset forth on foot, as they had at that time no horses or live stock ofany kind--save one dog, which had been purchased by the "Brute" (whoseproper name, by the way, was Andrew Rivers) from Groot Willem on the wayup.
They found the region most desirable in all respects. Open grassypastures were interspersed everywhere with clumps and groves ofmimosa-trees, while the river, a gurgling mountain-brook, meanderedmusically through the meadows. From grove and thicket sprang thehartebeest and duiker. From their lairs among the reeds and sedges ofthe river rushed the reitbok and wild hog; while troops of quaggasappeared trotting on the lower declivities of the hills.
"A magnificent region truly!" remarked Kenneth McTavish as they returnedhome at night.
"'Eaven upon earth!" said Jerry Goldboy, with quiet enthusiasm.
"What splendid scenery!" exclaimed Charlie Considine,--who was addictedto the pencil.
"What glorious sport!" cried his former antagonist, Rivers,--who wasfond of the rod and gun.
"And what aboot the Kawfirs and Bushmen?" asked Sandy Black, who, to usehis own language, "could aye objec'."
"Time enough to think of them when they appear," said Rivers.
"I don't believe they're half so bad as people say," cried Goldboystoutly.
"Maybe no," rejoined Black. "The place is paradise to-day, as yousagaciously remarked, Jerry, but if the Kawfirs come it'll bepandemonium to-morry. It's my opinion that we should get oursel's intoa defensible camp as soon as we can, an' than gae aboot our wark wi'easy minds. Ye mind what Goliath and Hans Marais said before they leftus, aboot keepin' a sharp look-oot."
As no one replied to this, the Scot changed the subject by askingConsidine when he meant to leave.
"Not till Hans Marais comes over the hills to fetch me," was the reply."He has taken upon himself to give me extended leave of absence. Youknow, Sandy, that I fill the office of Professor in his father's house,and of course the Marais sprouts are languishing for want of water whilethe schoolmaster is abroad, so I could not take it on myself to remainlonger away, if Hans had not promised to take the blame on his ownshoulders. Besides, rain in Africa is so infrequent, that the sproutswon't suffer much from a week, more or less, of drought. Your leaderwishes me to stay for a few days, and I am anxious to see how you geton. I'll be able to help a bit, and take part in the night-watches,which I heard Mr Pringle say he intends to institute immediately."
On the day following a site was fixed for the commencement of the infantcolony, and the tents, etcetera, were removed to it. The day afterbeing Sunday, it was unanimously agreed to "rest" from labour, and to"keep it holy."
It was an interesting and noteworthy occasion, the assembling of theScotch emigrants on that Sabbath day to worship God for the first timein Glen Lynden. Their church was under the shade of a venerableacacia-tree, close to the margin of the stream, which murmured round thecamp. On one side sat the patriarch of the party with silvery locks,the Bible on his knee, and his family seated round him,--the type of agrave Scottish husbandman. Near to him sat a widow, who had "seenbetter days," with four stalwart sons to work for and guard her. Besidethese were delicate females of gentle blood, near to whom sat theyounger brother of a Scotch laird, who wisely preferred independence inthe southern wilds of Africa to dependence "at home." Besides thesethere were youths and maidens, of rougher though not less honest mould--some grave, others gay, but all at that time orderly and attentive,while their leader gave forth the beautiful hymn which begins:
"O God of Bethel! by whose hand Thy people still are fed,"
and followed it with a selection of prayers from the English Liturgy,and a discourse from a volume of sermons.
While they were singing the last Psalm a beautiful antelope, which hadwandered down the valley,--all ignorant of the mighty change that hadtaken place in the prospects of its mountain home,--came suddenly insight of the party, and stood on the opposite side of the river gazingat them in blank amazement.
Andrew Rivers, who sat meekly singing a fine bass, chanced to raise hishead at the time. Immediately his eyes opened to their full extent, andthe fine bass stopped short, though the mouth did not close. With theirresistible impulse of a true sportsman he half rose, but Sandy Black,who sat near, caught him by the coat-tails and forced him firmly thoughsoftly down.
"Whist, man; keep a calm sough!"
The young man, becoming instantly aware of the impropriety of hisaction, resigned himself to fate and Sandy, and recoveredself-possession in time to close the interrupted line with two or threeof the deepest notes in the bass clef.
The innocent antelope continued to listen and gaze its fill, and wasfinally permitted to retire unmolested into its native jungle.
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Note 1. See _Narrative of a Residence in South Africa_, by ThomasPringle, late Secretary to the Anti-Slavery Society.