CHAPTER XII.
SIGHTS IN MADRID.
After an early breakfast—early for Spain—thestudents were assembled in a large hall providedby the landlord; and Professor Mapps gave the usuallesson relating to the city they were visiting:—
“The population of Madrid has fallen off from aboutfour hundred thousand to the neighborhood of threehundred thousand. The city was in existence in thetenth century, but was not of much account till thesixteenth, when Charles V. took up his residence here.Toledo was at that time the capital, as about everyprominent city of Spain had been before. In 1560Philip III. made Madrid the sole capital of the country;and it has held this distinction down to this day, thoughPhilip II. tried to move it to Valladolid. It is twenty–twohundred feet above the level of the sea; and thecutting off of all the trees in the vicinity—and I mayadd in all Spain—has injuriously affected the climate.This region has been said to have but two seasons,—‘ninemonths of winter, and three months of hell.’ Ifit is very cold in winter, it is probably by comparisonwith the southern part of the peninsula. Like manyother cities of Spain, Madrid has been captured by theEnglish and the French.”
Though the professor had much more to say, weshall report only these few sentences. The studentshastened out to see the city; and the surgeon took thecaptain and the first lieutenant under his wing, as usual.They went into the _Puerta del Sol_,—the Gate of theSun. Most of the city in early days lay west of thispoint, so that its eastern gate was where the centre nowis. As the sun first shone on this gate, it was calledthe gate of the sun. Though the gate is gone, theplace where it was located still retains the name. It isnearly in the shape of an ellipse; and most of theprincipal streets radiate from it. It usually presents avery lively scene, by day or by night. It is always fullof peddlers of matches, newspapers, lottery–tickets, andother merchandise.
“Where shall we go?” said the doctor.
“We will leave that to you,” replied Sheridan. “Youknow the ropes in this ship, and we don’t.”
“I think we will go first to the royal palace; and wehad better take a _berlina_, as they call it here.”
“A _berlina_? Is it a pill?” asked Murray.
“No; it is a carriage,” laughed the doctor. “Doyou see that one with a tin sign on the corner, with ‘_sealquila_’ painted on it? That means that the vehicle isnot engaged.”
The _berlina_ was called, and the party were drivendown the _Calla del Arenal_ to the palace. It is a magnificentbuilding, one of the finest in Europe, toweringfar above every thing else in the city. It is the mostsightly structure in Madrid. In front of it is the _Plazadel Oriente_, and in the rear are extensive gardens, reachingdown to the Manzanares. On the right of it arethe royal stables, and on the left is the royal armory.
“When I was in Madrid, in the time of the latequeen, no one was admitted to the palace because somevandal tourists had damaged the frescos and marbles,”said Dr. Winstock. “But for the last year it has beenopened. Your uniform and my passport will open thedoors to us.”
“What has the uniform to do with it?” asked Murray.
“A uniform is generally respected in Europe; for itindicates that those who wear it hold some naval ormilitary office.”
“We don’t hold any such office,” added Sheridan.
“But you are officers of a very respectable institution.”
As the doctor anticipated, admission was readilyobtained; and the trio were conducted all over thepalace, not excepting the apartments of the late queen.There is nothing especially noteworthy about it, for itwas not unlike a score of other palaces the party hadvisited.
In the stables, the party saw the state coaches; but,as they had seen so many royal carriages, they weremore interested in an American buggy because itlooked like home. The doctor pointed out the oldcoach in which Crazy Jane carried about with her thebody of her dead husband. The provisional governmenthad sold off most of the horses and mules. Inthe yard is a bath for horses.
From the stables the trio went to the armory, whichcontains many objects of interest. The suits of armorare kept as clean and nice as they were when in use.Those worn by Charles V. and Philip II. were examinedwith much care; but there seemed to be no marksof any hard knocks on them. At the head of the roomstands a figure of St. Ferdinand, dressed in regal robes,with a golden crown on the head and a sword in thehand, which is borne in solemn procession to the royalchapel by priests, on the 29th of May, and is kept theretwo weeks to receive the homage of the people.
In another room is a great variety of articles of historicinterest, among which may be mentioned the steelwriting–desk of Charles V., the armor he wore when heentered Tunis, his camp–stool and bed, and, above all,the steel armor, ornamented with gold, that was wornby Columbus. In the collection of swords were thoseof the principal kings, the great captain, and otherheroes.
“There is the armor of Isabella, which she woreat the siege of Granada,” said the doctor.
“Did she fight?” asked Murray.
“No more than her husband. Both were sovereignsin their own right; and it was the fashion to wear thesethings.”
“Very likely she had this on when Columbus calledto see her at Granada,” suggested Sheridan.
“I don’t know about that. I fancy she did notwear it in the house, but only when she presented herselfbefore the army,” replied the doctor.
The party spent a long time in this building, sointerested were the young men in viewing these memorialsof the past grandeur of Spain. After dinner theywent to the naval museum, which is near the armory.It contains a great number of naval relics, models ofhistoric vessels, captured flags, and similar mementosof the past. The chart of Columbus was particularlyinteresting to the students from the New World. Thereare several historical paintings, representing scenes inthe lives of Cortes, Pizarro, and De Soto. A portraitof Columbus is flanked on each side by those of thesovereigns who patronized him.
“This is a beautiful day,” said Dr. Winstock, asthey left the museum. “They call it very cold here,when the mercury falls below the freezing point. Itdoes not often get below twenty–four, and seldom solow as that. I think the glass to–day is as high asfifty–five.”
“I call it a warm day for winter,” added Sheridan.
“But the air of this city is very subtle. It will killa man, the Spaniards say, when it will not blow out acandle. I think we had better take a _berlina_, and rideover to the _Prado_. The day is so fine that we maypossibly see some of the summer glories of the place.”
“What are they?” asked Murray.
“To me they are the people who walk there; but ofcourse the place is the pleasantest when the trees andshrubs are in foliage.”
A _berlina_ was called, and the party drove throughthe _Calle Mayor_, the _Puerta del Sol_, and the _Calle deAlcala_, which form a continuous street, the broadestand finest in Madrid, from the palace to the Prado,which are on opposite sides of the city. A continuationof this street forms one end of the _Prado_; and anotherof the _Calle de Atocha_, a broad avenue reaching fromthe _Plaza Mayor_, near the palace, forms the other end.These are the two widest streets of Madrid. The _Callede Alcala_ is wide enough to be called a boulevard,and contains some of the finest buildings in the city.
“That must be the bull–ring,” said Sheridan, as theparty came in sight of an immense circular building.“I have read that it will hold twelve thousand people.”
“Some say sixteen thousand; but I think it wouldnot take long to count all it would hold above tenthousand. Philip V. did not like bull–fights, and hetried to do away with them; but the spectacle is thenational sport, and the king made himself very unpopularby attempting to abolish it. As a stroke of policy,to regain his popularity, he built this _Plaza de Toros_.It is what you see; but it is open to the weather in themiddle; and all bull–fights are held, ‘_Si el tiempo no loimpide_’ (if the weather does not prevent it). This isthe _Puerta de Alcala_,” continued the doctor, pointingto a triumphal arch about seventy feet high,
built byCharles III. “The gardens on the right are the ‘_BuenRetiro_,’ pleasant retreat. Now we will turn, and gothrough the _Prado_, though all this open space is oftencalled by this name.”
“But what is the ‘pleasant retreat’?”
“It is a sort of park and garden, not very attractiveat that, with a pond, a menagerie, and an observatory.It is not worth the trouble of a visit,” added the doctor,as he directed the driver to turn the _berlina_.
“I have often seen a picture of that statue,” saidSheridan, as they passed a piece of sculpture representinga female seated on a chariot drawn by lions.
“That is the Cybele.”
“Who is she?”
“Wife of Saturn, and mother of the gods,” repliedSheridan.
“This is the _Salon del Prado_” continued the doctor,as the carriage turned to the left into an avenuetwo hundred feet wide. “There are plenty of peoplehere, and I think we had better get out and walk, ifyou are not too tired; for you want to see the people.”
The _berlina_ was dismissed, and the party joined thethrong of _Madrileños_. Dr. Winstock called the attentionof his young friends to three ladies who wereapproaching them. They wore the mantilla, which isa long black lace veil, worn as a head–dress, but fallingin graceful folds below the hips. The ladies—exceptthe high class, fashionable people—wear no bonnets.The mantilla is a national costume, and the fan is anational institution among them. They manage thelatter, as well as the former, with peculiar grace; andit has even been said that they flirt with it, being ableto express their sentiments by its aid.
“But these ladies are not half so pretty as I supposedthe Spanish women were,” said Murray.
“That only proves that you supposed they werehandsomer than they are,” laughed Sheridan.
“They are not so handsome here as in Cadiz andSeville, I grant,” added the doctor; “but still I thinkthey are not bad looking.”
“I will agree to that,” replied Murray. “They aregood–looking women, and that’s all you can say ofthem.”
“Probably you have got some extravagant ideasabout Spanish girls from the novels you have read,”laughed the doctor; “and it is not likely that yourideal beauty will be realized, even in Cadiz and Seville.Here is the _Dos de Mayo_.”
“Who’s she?” asked Murray, looking rather vacantlyat a granite obelisk in the middle of an enclosed garden.
“It is not a woman,” replied the doctor.
“Excuse me; I think you said a dose of something,”added Murray.
“That monument has the name of ‘_El Dos deMayo_,’ which means ‘the second of May.’ It commemoratesa battle fought on this spot in 1808 by thepeasants, headed by three artillerymen, and the French.The ground enclosed is called ‘The Field of Loyalty.’”
“What is this long building ahead?” inquired Sheridan.
“That’s the Royal Museum, which contains the richestcollection of paintings in Europe.”
“Isn’t that putting it pretty strong, after what wehave seen in Italy and Germany?” asked Sheridan.
“I don’t say the largest or the best–arranged collectionin Europe, but the richest. It has more of the oldmasters, of the best and most valuable pictures in theworld, than any other museum. We will go thereto–morrow, and you can judge for yourselves.”
“Of course we are competent to do that,” addedMurray with a laugh.
“We haven’t been to any churches yet, doctor,” saidSheridan.
“There are many churches in Madrid, but none ofany great interest. The city has no cathedral.”
“I am thankful for that!” exclaimed Murray. “Ihave seen churches enough, though of course I shall goto the great cathedrals when we come to them.”
“You will be spared in Madrid. Philip II. wasasked to erect one; but he would appropriate only asmall sum for the purpose, because he did not wish anychurch to rival that of the Escurial.”
“I am grateful to him,” added Murray.
“The Atocha church contains an image which isamong the most venerated in Spain. It works miracles,and was carved by St. Luke.”
“Another job by St. Luke!” exclaimed Murray.
“That is hardly respectful to an image whose magnificentdress and rich jewels would build half a scoreof cheap churches.”
“Are there any theatres in Madrid, doctor?” askedMurray.
“Of course there are; half a dozen of them. Theprincipal is the Royal Theatre, near the palace, wherethe performance is Italian opera. It is large enoughto hold two thousand; but there is nothing Spanishabout it. If you want to see the Spanish theatre youmust go to some of the smaller ones. As you don’tunderstand Spanish, I think you will not enjoy it.”
“I want to see the customs of the country.”
“The only custom you will see will be smoking; andyou can see that anywhere, except in the churches,where alone, I believe, it is not permitted. Everybodysmokes, even the women and children. I have seen ayoungster not more than five years old struggling witha _cigarillo_; and I suppose it made him sick before hegot through with it; at least, I hope it did, for thenausea is nature’s protest against the practice.”
“But do the ladies smoke?”
“Not in public; but in private many of them do. Ihave seen some very pretty girls smoking in Spain.”
“I don’t remember that I have seen a man drunk inSpain,” said Sheridan.
“Probably you have not; I never did. The Spaniardsare very temperate.”
This long talk brought the party back to the hoteljust at dark. The next day was Sunday; but many ofthe students visited the churches, though most of themwere willing to make it a day of rest, in the strictestsense of the word. On Monday morning, as themuseum did not open till one o’clock, the doctor andhis _protégés_ took a _berlina_, and rode out to the palaceof the Marquis of Salamanca, where they were permittedto explore this elegant residence without restraint.In one of the apartments they saw a largepicture of the Landing of the Pilgrims, by a Spanishartist; and it was certainly a strange subject. Connectedwith the palace is a museum of antiquities quiteextensive for a private individual to own. The Pompeianrooms contain a vast quantity of articles fromthe buried city.
“Who is this Marquis of Salamanca?” asked Sheridan,as they started on their return.
“He is a Spanish nobleman, a grandee of SpainI suppose, who is somewhat noted as a financier.He has invested some money in railroads in the UnitedStates. The town of Salamanca, at the junction of theErie and Great Western, in Western New York, wasnamed after him,” replied Dr. Winstock.
“I have been through the place,” added Sheridan.
“This is not a very luxurious neighborhood,” saidMurray, when they came to one of those villages ofpoor people, of which there were several just outsideof the city.
“Generally in Europe the rich are very rich, and thepoor are very poor. Though the rich are not as rich inSpain as in some other countries, there is no exceptionto the rule in its application to the poor. These hovelsare even worse than the homes of the poor in Russia.Wouldn’t you like to look into one of them?”
“Would it be considered rude for us to do so?”asked Sheridan.
“Not at all. These people are not so sensitive aspoor folks in America; but, if they are hurt by ourcuriosity, a couple of _reales_ will repair all the damages.”
“Is this a _château en Espagne_?” said Murray. “Ihave read about such things, but I never saw onebefore.”
“_Châteaux en Espagne_ are castles in the air,—thingsunreal and unsubstantial; and, so far as the idea ofcomfort is concerned, this is a _château en Espagne_. Whenwe were in Ireland, an old woman ran out of a farworse shanty than this, and, calling it an Irish castle,begged for money. In the same sense we may callthis a Spanish castle.”
The carriage was stopped, and the party alighted.
“You see, the people live out–doors, even in thewinter,” said the doctor. “The door of this house iswide open, and you can look in.”
Th
e proprietor of the establishment stood near thedoor. He wore his cloak with as much style as thoughhe had been an hidalgo. Under this garment his clotheswere ragged and dirty; and he wore a pair of spatterdashes,most of the buttons of which were wanting, andit was only at a pinch that they staid on his ankles.His wife and four children stopped their work, or theirplay, as the case was, and gazed at the unwontedvisitors.
“_Buenos dias, caballero_,” said the doctor, as politelyas though he had been saluting a grandee.
The man replied no less politely.
“May we look into your house?” asked the doctor.
“_Esta muy a la disposicion de usted_,” replied the_caballero_ (it is entirely at your disposal).
This is a _cosa de España_. If you speak of any thinga Spaniard has, he makes you a present of it, be it hishouse or his horse, or any thing else; but you are notexpected to avail yourself of his generosity. It wouldbe as impolite to take him at his word as it would befor him not to place it “at your disposal.”
The house was of one story, and had but one doorand one window, the latter very small indeed. Thefloor was of cobble–stones bedded in the mud. Thelittle window was nothing but a hole; there was noglass in it; and the doctor said, that, when the weatherwas bad, the occupants had to close the door, and puta shutter over the window, so that they had no light.The interior was divided into two rooms, one containinga bed. Every thing was as simple as possible.The roof of the shanty was covered with tile whichlooked like broken flower–pots. In front, for use inthe summer, was an attempt at a veranda, with vinesrunning up the posts.
The doctor gave the smallest of the children a _peseta_,and bade the man a stately adieu, which was answeredwith dignity enough for an ambassador. The partydrove off, glad to have seen the interior of a Spanishhouse.
“Why did you give the money to the child insteadof the father?” asked Sheridan.
“I suppose your experience in other parts of Europewould not help you to believe it, but the average Spaniardwho is not a professional beggar is too proud toreceive money for any small favor,” replied the doctor.“I have had a _peseta_ indignantly refused by a man whohad rendered me a small service. This is as strangeas it is true, though, when you come to ride on a _diligencia_,you will find that driver, postilion, and _zagal_ willdo their best to get a gratuity out of you. I speakonly of the Spaniard who does you a favor, and notthose with whom you deal; but, as a general rule, thepeople are too proud to cheat you.”
“They are very odd sort of people,” added Murray.“There is one shovelling with his cloak on.”
“Not an unusual sight. I have seen a man ploughingin the field with his cloak on, and that on a ratherwarm day. You notice here that the houses are notscattered as they are with us; but even these shantiesare built in villages,” continued the doctor.
“I noticed that the houses were all in villages in allthe country we have come through since we left Barcelona,”said Murray.
“Can you explain the reason?”
“I do not see any reason except that is the fashionof the country.”
“There is a better reason than that. In early daysthe people had to live in villages in order to be ableto defend themselves from enemies. In Spain thecustom never changes, if isolated houses are even safeat the present time.”
“What is that sheet of paper hanging on the balconyfor?” asked Murray. “There is another; andnow I can see half a dozen of them.” The _berlina_was within a short distance of the _Puerta del Sol_.
“A sheet of white paper in the middle of the balconysignifies that the people have rooms to let; if atthe corner, they take boarders.”
The party arrived at the hotel in season for dinner;and, when it was over, they hastened to the _Museo_, orpicture–gallery. The building is very long, and of noparticular architectural effect. It has ten apartmentson the principal floor, in which are placed the gems ofthe collection. In the centre of the edifice is a verylong room which contains the burden of the paintings.There are over two thousand of them, and they are theproperty of the Crown. Among them are sixty–two byRubens, fifty–three by Teniers, ten by Raphael, forty–sixby Murillo, sixty–four by Velasquez, twenty–two byVan Dyck, forty–three by Titian, thirty–four by Tintoretto,twenty–five by Paul Veronese, and hundreds byother masters hardly less celebrated.
The doctor’s party spent three hours among thesepictures, and they went to the museum for the sametime the next day; for they could better appreciatethese gems than most of the students, many of whomwere not willing to use a single hour in looking atthem. Our party visited the public buildings, andtook many rides and walks in the city and its vicinity,which we have not the space to report. On Wednesdaymorning the ship’s company started for Toledo.