CHAPTER XIV.
THE EXCURSION TO FORT GEORGE ISLAND.
Fort George Island is certainly a beautiful place for a summer or awinter residence, or for both. It is three and a half miles long, notincluding the sand-bar at the end, and a mile wide. On one side is theocean, and on the other the Sisters' Channel, one of the insidepassages by which steamers reach Savannah and Fernandina.
Owen told me the party would sail for Jacksonville at four o'clock, anddine as soon as the steamer was under way. All the excursionistslanded, and leaving Washburn in charge, I went with them. Cornwoodbegan to discharge his duties as guide as soon as we were on shore; buta considerable portion of the party were familiar with the island, andhe did not have a large audience.
"This shell road," said he, as we left the wharf, "is the beginning ofEdgewood Avenue, which is two miles and a half long. At the farther endof it is the hotel."
He continued his explanations to those who desired to hear them duringthe entire walk. I shall not repeat them. I found that he could givethe name of every tree, plant, and flower we saw on the way. He had aname for every bird, bug, and worm; and I am ready to acknowledge thatthe extent, variety, and minuteness of his knowledge astonished me,partly because my prejudice led me to expect nothing of him. That thosewho brag most know least, did not appear to prove true in his case; forhe did not have to "give it up" on any question asked him by thetourists of our party. He related the history of the island, and therewas not a single particular concerning it on which he was not fullyinformed.
After crossing the beach on the shell road, we came to the forest oflive-oaks, magnolias, palmettos, bay-trees, and others that one neversees in Maine or Michigan. I walked with Mr. Tiffany, and we agreedthat this was one of the most delightful places we had visited. Prettysoon we were joined by Miss Margie and Miss Edith, who had becomeinseparable friends and companions. I learned that the Tiffanys hadalready accepted the invitation of Owen and Colonel Shepard to join theparty for the up-river trip.
"Are there no snakes on this island, Captain Garningham?" asked MissMargie, soon after we entered the wood.
"I dare say there are; but I don't know anything about it," I replied.
"Undoubtedly there are snakes on the island," interposed Mr. Cornwood;and I saw that he glanced at me, with a smile, as if in allusion to myexperience on the evening before.
"I am very much afraid of snakes," said Miss Margie, looking timidlyabout her.
"But the snakes are more afraid of you than you are of them, MissTiffany," replied Cornwood. "Even the rattlesnake will keep out of yourway, if he can."
"And I should surely keep out of his way. Are there rattlesnakes onthis island?" asked the timid English maiden.
"I am sorry to say there are; but you might live on the island tenyears and never see one. When you walk, you will naturally keep in thepaths cut through the woods. Rattlesnakes will not visit theselocalities. But the rattlesnake is a very gentlemanly fellow; and if byany chance one should stray into a path, he would give you abundantwarning before he did you any harm."
"I don't wish to see one," replied Miss Margie, with a shudder.
"You may be sure you will not meet any in the paths we take to-day,"added the guide in a comforting tone. "But I would rather meet a dozenof them than step upon a copperhead or a water-moccasin. These will runaway when they see you, if they can. The water-moccasin will nottrouble you if you let him alone. The only danger from any Floridasnake is in coming upon him when you don't see him."
"That is just what I am afraid of," said Miss Margie.
"This island has been settled so long that there can be but few snakesof the harmful kind left on it; for whites and blacks always kill themat sight."
After a very pleasant walk we reached the hotel, where a lunch wasready for us. To me the principal feature of this lunch was the broiledshad, the fish just taken from the water. It was the freshest and bestI had ever eaten. The oysters in the chowder were small, but had beentaken from the water that morning.
After the lunch the excursionists broke up into little parties, andeach went where they were best pleased to go. I felt rather inclined togo where Miss Margie went, for I had found she was as agreeable as shewas pretty. Owen and the Shepards went to the Palmetto Avenue, whichleads to an ancient homestead, affording a fair specimen of theplanter's home in days gone by. Mr. Tiffany and his daughter wished toascend Mount Cornelia, to which there was a carriage-road all the wayfrom the hotel to the summit. This hill has an elevation of ninety-fivefeet, the highest point on the coast from Navesink and Cuba. Mr.Cornwood accompanied us, for, in spite of the warning Mr. Tiffany hadgiven me, he was the guide's most attentive listener.
On the summit of the hill we found an observatory, which we occupiedfor a full hour. It commanded a fine view of the ocean, the inlandchannels, and the country beyond them. Before we left, Owen and theShepards joined us.
"Have you seen any snakes, Margie?" asked Edith, when they were seatedat the top of the observatory.
"I have not seen one; indeed, I have not thought of the snakes sinceMr. Cornwood assured me we should see none," replied Miss Margie.
"I rather like snakes, and I hoped I should see some," added MissEdith, very bravely.
"I think I could find some for you, Miss Edith," interposed Cornwood.
"No, I thank you. I don't care to go snaking. When I see one I wish tohave it without any effort on my part," replied the beautiful girl.
"That is a nice way to get out of it," added Miss Margie. "I believe Ishould faint away if I came upon one, without any effort on my part."
"You will be likely to see some on your trip up the river, if you go onshore. The largest moccasin I ever saw I killed within the limits ofthe city of Jacksonville. It was on the way to Moncrief's Spring. Areyou fond of alligators?" asked Mr. Cornwood, who also seemed to regardthe English girl with much favor.
"I never saw one in my life," answered Miss Margie. "We don't have anysuch creatures in England. But I have seen pictures of the crocodile,which I dare say is the same thing."
"They are certainly the same sort of reptile, though a crocodile is notan alligator any more than an alligator is a crocodile. They differ inthe shape of the head; the lower canine teeth of the crocodile fit intonotches between the teeth of the upper jaw, while the alligator's lowerteeth fit into cavities in the upper jaw. The alligator has a broaderand shorter head than the crocodile. The cayman, found in the EastIndies and in tropical South America, is different in some respectsfrom either. But we have both crocodiles and alligators in the moresouthern of the United States."
"I am sure I don't care whether they are crocodiles or alligators; theyare ugly-looking beasts, and I don't want to see any of them," repliedMiss Margie.
Mr. Cornwood had evidently "studied up" on alligators; and I was quiteinterested in his comparison of the different reptiles, for I hadsupposed they were all alike.
"You can't very well help seeing them when you go up the river, forsome of the streams we shall doubtless explore are full of them," addedthe Floridian.
"Are you not afraid of them?"
"I don't think I ever saw anybody who was afraid of an alligator; theyare too common here to alarm any person. But I am surprised that youdid not see any alligators in Jacksonville, for thousands of littleones are kept for sale at the curiosity stores, and larger ones arekept for exhibition."
"I didn't happen to see any of them. Are they not dangerous?"
"We do not consider them so. In the earlier days of the State, whenalligators eighteen feet in length were occasionally found, they mayhave attacked men when they caught them in the water. On land they arerather sluggish; but they are right smart in the water. The largestones we are likely to see will not be over twelve feet long; and youwill find ten little ones to one of this size. None of them will meddleeven with a child; though if you should lie on the edge of a boat, witha hand or foot in the water, and went to sleep, they might snap at it."
"Ugh!"
gasped the pretty maiden, with a shudder.
"You will be so much accustomed to them in a week after we start up theriver, that you will not mind them more than you do the flies, and nothalf so much as you do the mosquitoes," added Mr. Cornwood.
"Are there many mosquitoes where we are going, Mr. Cornwood?" asked Mr.Tiffany.
"Not many at this season of the year, though we may fall intolocalities where they are very plenty. I shall take the liberty tosuggest to Captain Garningham to have a quantity of mosquito netting onboard, to provide against these pests," replied the Floridian, glancingfrom the Englishman to me.
"I will tell the steward to see that the beds and berths are properlyprotected," I added, glad to have the suggestion in season to save thepassengers from annoyance.
Owen and Miss Edith had not paid any attention to Mr. Cornwood'slessons in natural history. Both of them had evidently voted theFloridian a bore. My cousin thought it was time to return to the hotel,where the band was playing for the benefit of the people.
All the party had collected there, and we soon started for the steamer.The band went ahead and played a march, and we kept step to the music.I found that Mr. Cornwood had again attached himself to Miss Margie, tothe plain annoyance of that lady's father. I called him away, anddropping to the rear of the procession, I questioned him in regard tothe trip up the river. He clearly understood my object in asking thesequestions at this time, and his answers were crusty, and his mannersulky. I persisted in torturing him till we reached the steamer, thoughI sacrificed my own pleasure in doing it for Miss Margie's benefit.
It was just four by the clock in the pilot-house when the Sylvaniasailed on her return. The dinner was served in the cabin, and Gopherhad done his best, as usual. At six Cornwood made a very good landingat the Market Wharf, and our guests departed immediately. I had tothank Washburn for doing one-half of the hand-shaking when they steppedashore. Cornwood thought he would remain in the city, but I told him Iwanted him on board. The mate did not go to the anchorage in thesteamer, but stayed ashore.